Thursday, December 26, 2024

Innsbruck, Austria

Thursday, December 26, 2024    No comments

Inna reserved four nights at the Hotel Innsbruck from December 26 - 30, 2024. We wanted to explore the Christmas Markets, visit popular local museums, and ski in the area.

I sent an email to the Hotel Innsbruck, to inquire about snowboard rentals in the area:

1. Where is the best/closest snowboard/ski rental shop (near the hotel)?
We recommended you „Die Boerse“ for rental equipment
https://www.dieboerse.at/en/

2. Are there snowboard storage lockers in the hotel? If not, where do you recommend to store them?
You can store your snowboard in our ski depot anytime you need it.

3. Is there a hotel ski shuttle to Nordkette? if not, how do we get there?

According to your reservation, you will stay four nights in our hotel, therefore we can send you the day of your arrival the ‘welcome card’ with which you will be able to use all the public transport in the city as well as some discounts. Here is the form:

https://www.hotelinnsbruck.com/de/innsbruck-aufenthaltsplaner-vom-innsbruck-team/welcome-card/

Just around the corner from the hotel is the bus stop „Marktplatz“ and there you can take the bus ‘J’ eading to Hungerburg.
4. Which ski resorts can be easily reached by train?

5. Is there any cross-country skiing nearby? (If so, where and how far away?)

We have also information in our website about the ski resorst near by the city and also how you can reach them:

https://www.hotelinnsbruck.com/en/destination-innsbruck--stay-planner-by-innsbruck-team/skiing/


Thursday, December 26, 2024

On arrival at Innsbruck's train station from St. Anton at 12:11, we boarded a taxi (at the curb) and were quickly dropped off at Hotel Innsbruck. Our driver was not sure that all 3 of our large suitcases would fit but somehow squeezed them in the car.

We checked into Hotel Innsbruck and dropped off our bags. as our room #320 was not yet ready. We decided to eat lunch and looked around for nearby restaurants.

At first, we stopped by Altstadt-Schmankerl, but it was closed (December 26 is a major holiday in Austria), so we continued to another highly rated Greek restaurant, Akropolis.

We sat down at Akropolis and ordered the following items. Note, the food was excellent but service was a bit slow and uneven.

  • Drinks: Hot Tea x 3
  • Soups: Kotosoupa (Chicken Broth)
  • Appetizer: Tzatziki with Pita, Octopus
  • Alex: Samos Pfanne
  • Inna: Juvetsaki
  • Boris: Mousaka
The Tzatziki was excellent and the Chicken Soup was delicious too. My Mousaka was delicious and Alex loved his lamb (Samos Pfanne). Overall, we ate a tasty lunch! I wished the waiter was better at refilling our hot tea. I had a sore throat and wanted to drink a lot of hot fluids.

After lunch, we explored the downtown area, stopping by the Christmas Markets (sampling hot chocolate and warm Gluhwein). We took many photos of the Golden Roof and the many colorful creatures attached to buildings.

We also stopped by the Dieborse Ski Rental shop but it was closed. Even though we arrived during its normal operating hours (15:00 - 18:00) and had an "OPEN" sign, the door was locked and no one was inside.

We returned to the hotel and rested for some time. Alex, and then Inna went to use the saunas and the pool. Since I had a severe cold, I decided to rest in our #320 room.

For dinner, we decided to walk downstairs and eat at the Hotel's Zirbenstube Restaurant. Today, the restaurant had a live pianist playing favorite tunes such as "Autumn Leaves", "Girl from Ipanema", "Ochi Chyornye",  and the Theme from The Godfather.

After looking at the menu, we ordered the following:
  • Alex: Lamb Filet, Hot Tea
  • Boris: Tomato Soup, Seafood Platter (scallops), Hot Early Grey
  • Inna: Beef Soup, Seafood Platter, Radler, Hot Tea
  • Dessert: Chocolate Souffle
The Tomato Soup was not bad, but the Seafood entrees were of average quality. The Chocolate Souffle was too dry. I did enjoy the piano music and the service was quick and efficient.


Friday, December 27, 2024

I woke at 08:30, showered, and dressed. When both Inna and Alex were ready, we walked downstairs for breakfast at Hotel Innsbruck.

After sitting down, I ordered some a la carte items and others from the self-serve island. Overall, the food was of average quality.
  • Alex: Eggs, Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Boris: Omelet (with vegetables, ham), Peach Yogurt, Coffee
  • Inna:  Deli Meats, Latte, Hot Earl Grey Tea
The breakfast was of average quality. Other than the omelet, I did not really like anything else. I am surprised that the 

After breakfast, we dressed warmly and decided to go for a short one-hour hike recommended by ChatGPT - the Nordkette Panorama Trail.
 
To reach the trail, we walked from the Innsbruck Hotel to the Altstadt Station (bottom station of Nordkette Funicular). I purchased 3 adult tickets for Hungerburg (where the trail was supposed to begin) and for the Alpine Zoo (which we also wanted to visit). 



We did not find the exact trail and instead walked along Hungerburgweg to Aussichtsplatz Steigerruhe and turned around (when the trail got steep). There was a lot of snow and a steep drop-off (and we did not want to take unnecessary risks).

Although we saw a few skiers and snowboarders at Nordkette, there were only a couple of open trails and the snow was melting.

After we hiked for 35 minutes, we rode the Nordkette Funicular one level down to Alpine Zoo, where we spent a few hours looking at the following creatures:

Mammals
  • Beaver
  • Chamois
  • Elk
  • Otter
  • Wolf
  • Sheep
  • Cow
Birds
  • Common Raven
  • Bearded Vulture
  • Golden Eagle
  • Black Woodpecker
  • Hermit Ibis
  • Snow Grouse
After finishing touring the zoo, we stopped by for lunch in the Zoo's Cafeteria.  We selected the following:
  • Boris: Espresso, Spaghetti Bolognese
  • Alex: Beef Soup with pancake strips, Spaghetti Bolognese, Hot Tea
  • Inna: Beef Soup with pancake strips, Latte
We enjoyed our lunch and then rode the Norkette funicular back to downtown Innsbruck. We tried to find a coffee shop (but one was very busy), so I went home to rest, while Inna decided to go shopping and Alex wanted to workout at a gym.

I had made reservations for dinner at Restaurant Zum Wohl Tirol at 19:30. When Inna returned from shopping, she rested briefly, before going to dinner.

We met Alex at Restaurant Zum Wohl Tirol but the wrong one! There are two identical Restaurants Zum Wohl Tirol near each other. I had made reservations at the other one and we walked over. After sitting down, we ordered the following items (see menury.com for the menu):
  • Soups: 3 x Tom Kha Gai 
  • Boris: Radler (30cl), Chicken Tschakka
  • Inna: Hot Tea, Oklahoma Onion Smash Burger - Innsbruck Edition
  • Alex: Hot Tea, Pulled Pork Cheese Fries
The drinks were brought out quickly but the Tom Kha Gai soups and the entrees took some time (20+ minutes). They were all delicious!

We returned to Innsbruck Hotel (and Alex decided to use the sauna), while Inna and I strolled the old town, taking photos. The old town was mostly deserted at 22:00, and I thought there would be more life on Friday night.

Saturday, December 28, 2024

I woke at 08:15, showered, shaved, and dressed. When both Inna and Alex were ready, we walked downstairs for breakfast at Hotel Innsbruck.

I ordered the omelet and coffee from the waitress and picked up others from the self-serve island. Overall, the food was of average quality, and we selected the following items:
  • Alex: Scrambled Eggs, Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Boris: Omelet (with vegetables, ham), Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Inna:  Omelet (with vegetables, ham), Latte, Hot Earl Grey Tea
After breakfast, Inna and I decided to walk to Schloss Ambras Innsbruck (a 4.2km/1-hour walk through downtown Innsbruck). 

As we walked through Innsbruck, we noticed the various shops (including numerous hair salons). When we reached the south part of Innsbruck, we noticed some of the uglier/cheaper housing (rectangular apartment buildings where probably pensioners/retired people reside). We saw excellent public transportation everywhere, including buses, trams, and scooters. There were plenty of bicycles around too (even during winter).

Here are a few details about Ambras Castle:
Schloss Ambras is a late renaissance castle now a national museum housing portrait collections, art & an armory.

According to Wikipedia: 

Ambras Castle is a Renaissance castle and palace located in the hills above Innsbruck, Austria. Ambras Castle is 632 metres (2,073 ft) above sea level. Considered one of the most popular tourist attractions of the Tyrol, Ambras Castle was built in the 16th century on the spot of an earlier 10th-century castle, which became the seat of power for the Counts of Andechs. The cultural and historical importance of the castle is closely connected with Archduke Ferdinand II (1529–1595) and served as his family's residence from 1567 to 1595. Ferdinand was one of history's most prominent collectors of art. The princely sovereign of Tyrol, son of Emperor Ferdinand I, ordered that the medieval fortress at Ambras be turned into a Renaissance castle as a gift for his wife Philippine Welser. The cultured humanist from the House of Habsburg accommodated his world-famous collections in a museum: the collections, still in the Lower Castle built specifically for that museum's purpose, make Ambras Castle one of the oldest museums in the world.

We reached the castle from its North side and had to hike uphill to reach the upper and lower castles. 

Initially, we were tired and cold from the walk and stopped by the Upper Castle (which had an open cafe) to warm up. We ordered a hot chocolate and an affogato (the cafe did not accept credit cards and we only had 10 euros cash on hand).

While Inna rested at the cafe, she encouraged me to visit the armory, as she was not interested in looking at medieval armor and weapons.

I walked to the lower castle, purchased one adult ticket (14 euros), and started the tour of the following galleries:

  • Armory of Heroes
  • Chamber of Personal Armor (and Turkish Chamber)
  • Baroque Armory
  • The Chamber of Art and Wonders
  • Ambras Hall of Antiquities
  • Spanish Hall (skipped by me)
I enjoyed getting a closer look at the shiny armor from the 16 - 17th centuries. I was particularly impressed by the giant armor created for Bartlma Bon (he must have been over 8 feet tall!)

Some of the armor is from the 30-Year War. According to Wikipedia:
Archduke Ferdinand II's idea of a museum was a novelty: he systematically collected armour from famous personalities of his time. 
He presented this armour "to the eternal memory" of that persons - mostly military commanders - in the "Heldenrüstkammer" (Heroes' Armoury); some on display today still in the original 16th century showcases. 
His "Rüstkammern" (Armouries) contain very rare examples of arms and armour from the 15th century which originally came from the collections of Emperor Maximilian I and Archduke Sigismund. 
Armour for tournaments like the German joust or the German course, and the armour of the court's giant Bartlmä Bon, who took part in the tournament in Vienna in 1560, can be seen. 
The "Leibrüstkammer" (Court Armoury) includes the archduke's private armour and the armour of the court of Innsbruck. Ferdinand's collection of armour was one of the most important of its kind, not only because of the collection idea, but also because of the quality and quantity of his objects. 
After finishing the tour, I returned to Inna at the upper castle and we caught the "M" bus to return us to Innsbruck Hotel.

On the way there, we decided to stop for lunch at Das Schindler (on the 2nd floor) and Alex met us a few minutes later. We ordered the following items:

  • Soups: 2 x Beef Boullion
  • Boris: Radler, Large Wiener Salad
  • Inna: Small Wiener Schnitzel, Hot Tea
  • Alex: Large Wiener Schnitzel, Hot Tea
  • Dessert: Apple Strudel
The Beef Soup was excellent and my salad was tasty. Inna and Alex liked their Wiener Schnitzel. The Apple Strudel was small but delicious.

For dinner, Inna made reservations for 19:30 in Il Convento (a nearby Italian restaurant). After walking 5 minutes there, we waited to be seated (about 10 minutes, while our table was being prepared) and then were led downstairs. After looking at the menu, we ordered the following items:
  • Drinks: San Pellegrino x 2
  • Alex: Filetto di Manzo (Beef)
  • Boris: Insalata Misto, Ravioli Ricotta
  • Inna: Insalata Ricola, Tagliatelle Tartufo
  • Dessert: Chocolate Tort with Pistachio Ice Cream
While the table service was spotty, the entrees were excellent. My Insalata Misto didn't have any dressing and it tasted fine (once I added olive oil and balsamic vinegar). The Ravioli Ricotta was excellent (I could tell the pasta was freshly made). Inna raved about her Tagliatelle Tartufo. Alex's beef (Filetto di Manzo) was also exceptional.

Sunday, December 29, 2024

I woke at 08:15, showered and dressed. When both Inna and Alex were ready, we walked downstairs for breakfast at Hotel Innsbruck.

After sitting down for breakfast, the waiter kept ignoring us. Inna finally got hold of a waiter who fetched us coffee (Inna made the hot tea herself). I selected the following items from the breakfast island selected the following items:
  • Alex: Scrambled Eggs, Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Boris: Plain Yogurt, Coffee
  • Inna:  Poached Egg, Latte, Hot Earl Grey Tea
After breakfast, we decided to stroll around the Inn River for a few hours. It was nice to see various houses and other people strolling. We saw a lot of dog walkers and bicyclists.

Around 12:30, we stopped by Der Bäcker Ruetz - Mariahilfpark (a local bakery chain) to warm up. We ordered the following items:
  • Boris: Espresso, pastry with poppy seeds
  • Inna: Latte, pastry with cream, water
While eating, we thought that Alex might want to join us (for lunch) and messaged him. He came over and we also ordered an additional wiener-schnitzel sandwich. The pastries were pretty good but the schnitzel was just average.

After lunch, Alex decided to head to the local Starbucks, to program, while Inna and I decided to visit the Hofburg Palace & Museum. We purchased 2 adult tickets (10 euros/person) and walked on the 1st and 2nd floors. We learned a bit about the Hofburg Palace and Maximillian. According to Wikipedia:

Maximilian I (22 March 1459 – 12 January 1519) was King of the Romans from 1486 and Holy Roman Emperor from 1508 until his death in 1519. He was never crowned by the Pope, as the journey to Rome was blocked by the Venetians.[2] He proclaimed himself elected emperor in 1508 at Trent, with Pope Julius II later recognizing it.[3][4][5] This broke the tradition of requiring a papal coronation for the adoption of the Imperial title. Maximilian was the only surviving son of Frederick III, Holy Roman Emperor, and Eleanor of Portugal. Since his coronation as King of the Romans in 1486, he ran a double government, or Doppelregierung, with his father until Frederick's death in 1493.[6][7]

Maximilian expanded the influence of the House of Habsburg through war and his marriage in 1477 to Mary, Duchess of Burgundy. However, he also lost his family's lands in Switzerland to the Swiss Confederacy. Through the marriage of his son Philip the Handsome to eventual queen Joanna of Castile in 1496, Maximilian helped to establish the Habsburg dynasty in Spain, which allowed his grandson Charles to hold the thrones of both Castile and Aragon.[8] Historian Thomas A. Brady Jr. describes him as "the first Holy Roman Emperor in 250 years who ruled as well as reigned" and the "ablest royal warlord of his generation".


After the museum, we stopped but the Golden Roof area to try the local Sauerkraut vendor and ordered a hot dog with sauerkraut, It was delicious (and much better than any in California)!

We walked a bit further along the Inn River and then returned to see the Lumagica Christmas Light show. The tickets were 19.90 euros per person and there was a long line queued up to enter. I could purchase tickets online or in person (and decided to purchase them in person).

Lumagica was amazing with fantastic, colorful decorations of butterflies, birds, and other creatures frequently set to music. We took hundreds of photos and were amazed at the creativity. It was so much better than the Christmas light show at Vasona Lake (in Los Gatos).

For dinner, our hotel concierge made dinner reservations at Ottorburg for 20:00. After waiting about 10 minutes to be seated, we looked at the menu and ordered the following items (our waitress brought out the bread rolls quickly, but hot tea was slow to arrive).
  • Alex: Hot Tea, Chicken Breast Toscana (Huhnebrust) 
  • Boris: Radler, Tafelspitz, Salat der Saison
  • Inna: Gruner Veltliner, Hot Tea, Wilderpfand (Deer) 
  • Dessert: Fluffy Chocolate Mousse
My Tafelspitz (Boiled Beef with potatoes) was pretty good, though not at the level of Plachutta in Vienna. Inna's Wilderpfand (Deer) was not bad. Alex liked his Chicken Bread Toscana. Ottorburg was reasonably priced and well run (though service was a bit slow in bringing our hot tea).

Monday, December 30, 2024

After our usual tasteless breakfast, we ordered a taxi for 10:25 and checked out of our room (packing all of our belongings in the 3 large suitcases). After the cab dropped us off at the Innsbruck Train Station, we found platform #31, waiting for our train to Langenfeld. I had pre-purchased 3 train/bus tickets using the OBB app on my iPhone (the day before).

We almost missed our train, since was parked much further ahead and we didn't realize it was the right train for Otztal. Luckily, we managed to board the train right before it departed.

After getting off in Otztal, we boarded bus #320 for Langenfeld (where Aquadome is located). Once we reached the Langenfeld Gemeindeamt Bus stop, we got off. It was a bit of a walk to Aquadome (I was surprised there was no closer stop).




Innsbruck Trip Report

Highlights

Lowlights
  • Catching a cold (sore throat and runny nose) for both Inna, Alex, and I
  • Poor snow conditions for snowboarding at Nordkette and other nearby resorts
  • Getting a poor response from Dieborse Ski Rental 
    • Eventually, the shop responded to my emails (but too late)
  • Mediocre breakfast at Hotel Innsbruck (slow service, mediocre food)
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