Visiting Porto, Portugal

Although Inna visited Portugal in 2022, I had only visited Lisbon and Santiago de Compostella during a Celebrity European Cruise in 2003. 

For my upcoming birthday, Inna planned an exciting trip to Portugal, with stops in Porto, Douro Valley, Covilha, Coimbra, and Lisbon. 

Date	Flights	Loc	Hotel	Car rental	Activities
9/20	TAP Portugal TP238 SFO 4:20PM - Lisbon 11:25AM (9/21)				Fly SFO -> LIS
9/21		Porto	Gran Cruz House (Check-In Day) Praça da Ribeira, Viela do Buraco 19, 4050-132 Porto  +351 227 662 270		Train from Lisbon to Porto
9/22		Porto	Gran Cruz House
9/23		Porto	Gran Cruz House
9/24		Porto -> Douro Valley	Gran Cruz House (Check-out day) Ventozelo Hotel & Quinta (Check-in day) Quinta de Ventozelo S João da Pesqueira, Ervedosa do Douro, 5130-077 Portugal +351 254 249 670 hotel@quintadeventozelo.pt	V	Rent a car in Porto (Hertz) and drive to Douro Valley
9/25		Douro Valley -> Covilha	Ventozelo Hotel & Quinta (Check-out day) H2OTEL CONGRESS & MEDICAL SPA **** (Check-in day) Avenida das Termas 6215-674 - Covilha Telephone: +351 275 330 406 geral@naturaimbhotels.com	V
9/26		Covilha	H2OTEL	V
9/27		Covilha	H2OTEL	V
9/28		Covilha -> Coimbra	H2OTEL (Check-out day) Quinta Das Lagrimas (Check-in day) Rua António Augusto Gonçalves - Santa Clara, Coimbra, Santa Clara, 5053, Portugal +351 239 802380 reservas@quintadaslagrimas.pt	V	Drive to Coimbra
9/29		Coimbra	Quinta Das Lagrimas	V
9/30		Coimbra -> Lisbon	Quinta Das Lagrimas (Check-out day) Torel Palace Lisbon (Check-in day) Rua Câmara Pestana 45 Lisboa, 1150-082 Portugal +351 226 000 815 Call to the national fixed network reservas@torelpalacelisbon.com	V	Drive to Lisbon
10/1			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/2			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/3			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/4			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/5			Torel Palace Lisbon
10/6	TAP Portugal TP237 LIS 9:55AM - SFO 2:35PM		Torel Palace Lisbon (Check-out day)		Fly LISBON - SFO

					Fly LISBON - SFO

Due to the long flight from San Francisco to Lisbon, Inna purchased business-class tickets way in advance to maximize comfort on this 11-hour non-stop flight. She booked a TP238 Air Portugal flight from San Francisco (SFO) to Lisbon (LIS) for September 20, 2024, at 16:20. 

Friday, September 20, 2024

We planned to drive to the San Francisco airport at 13:00, but I forgot my light jacket, so I had to return to our house to pick it up.

I drove the Tesla Model Y to SFO's International Terminal, arriving at 14:12, while Alex drove it home. When we arrived at SFO, we searched for a lounge to enjoy complimentary snacks and drinks before our flight. 

The United Lounge (assigned to TAP Air Portugal) was at Gate G, while our flight was at Gate A. We did not want to traverse  TSA security multiple times, so we decided to find a lounge at Gate A. Unfortunately, none of the lounges would let us in. Virgin Atlantic Lounge had a 12:30 cutoff time, and the Golden Gate Lounge was too complete to let anyone in with a priority pass. The China Airlines looked open but was extremely busy (and we decided to skip it).

We stopped by a Mexican restaurant for lunch, ordering two bowls of chicken, but the food was horrible (but worse than Chipotle) and more expensive, too.

After lunch, we stopped for coffee at a nearby coffee shop and headed to gate A10. Our name was being called, and we stopped by TAP Air Portugal to show our passports. We boarded the Airbus A350 with seats 2H and 3K. It was so lovely to fly business class!

Once seated in the fully reclining seats, I read Alexander McCall Smith's Double Comfort Safari Club." I had previously listened to a part of the story on Audible but decided to complete it on my Kindle.

When the plane departed and the entertainment system became operational, I watched a series of movies. At first, I watched Ferrari, a biopic about Enzo Ferrari, the founder of the Ferrari company, and his racing (and personal) troubles. It was not as exciting as I expected.

I also watched  The Bucket List with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman. It was an excellent movie about two terminally ill patients who bond over chemotherapy and decide to make a list of all the things they want to do before they die. While dealing with serious health problems, they try skydiving, hiking in Nepal/Tibet, going on an African safari, and visiting Hong Kong.

Our business-class seats had excellent cabin service, though the dinner and breakfast were not outstanding (like on ITA airlines).

I could doze off lightly during the flight (in my fully reclining seats) and get some needed rest.

Saturday, September 21, 2024

We landed on schedule at 11:10 in Lisbon. I was surprised we had to exit the plane outside and board a bus to the terminal. However, passing passport control was fast and pain-free, and we were quickly in the giant airport terminal. There were tons of people and many shops. It felt like being in a shopping mall.

After finding the Uber/Bolt car-sharing area, we tried to order using Bolt, but all our attempts were canceled (by drivers). We usually use Uber in the United States, so we tried using Uber in Portugal. 

Luckily, our Uber request was accepted, and we boarded a BYD Electric car to the Lisboa Oriente Train terminal. The BYD car was quite impressive. It had a huge display and fascinating design features (large displays, funky speakers). I see how BYD would be a threat to US car makers.

We found the train platform at the Lisboa Oriente Train Station and ate lunch nearby. We found a small cafe and ordered some sandwiches and cappuccinos. They were nothing special, but the prices were very reasonable (12 euros for two sandwiches, two cappuccinos, and a bottle of spring water).

We arrived at the Porto Campanha Train station and ordered a Bolt to our Gran Cruz House Hotel. We boarded a Renault and were dropped off near our hotel. There was a lot of traffic and many people nearby. 

We eventually found our hotel, hidden behind all the restaurant tables on the waterfront (overflowing with tourists).

When we checked into our Gran Cruz House, we were offered a sampling of local Port wines. I tried the Porto Cruz Ruby, which I liked. We talked with our hotel receptionist, and he provided a particular set of recommendations to see:

Sights:

• De Castro Gaia
• Sao Bento Train Station
• Bolhao Market
• Avenida dos Aliados
• Se' do Porto (12th Century Cathderal)
• Clergios Tower (nightly light show)
• Lello Bookshop (signed first-edition Harry Potter books)

Restaurants:

• Adega Dona Antonia
• Terra Nova
• Muro do Bacalhau
• Mistu (our favorite restaurant in Porto)
• Do Norte Cafe by Hungry Biker

We checked into the Ruby room on the 4th floor, with windows overlooking the Douro River. From our room, we could hear the sounds of street musicians below (and the clammer of the many restaurants).

I felt sweaty and fatigued, so I quickly showered before eating at Osteria di Porto. Although the walk there was short—about 14 minutes—it was all uphill, and we huffed and puffed all the way. After sitting down inside, we looked at the menu and ordered the following:

• Appetizer:
• Salad (with all items separate)
• Boris:
• Primavera Pizza
• Local red wine
• Inna
• Grilled Octopus
• Local green wine

The Grilled Octopus was excellent, and the Primavera pizza was delicious. However, I was not too fond of the restaurant's tranquil atmosphere. I would have preferred to hear some live music.

After dinner, we returned to the Gran Cruz House and crossed the Ponte Luis I Bridge to Villa de Gaia. Gaia's scene was less lively than Porto's, with fewer street musicians. 

Here is a video clip of the Beatles' "When I'm 64" on an organ:

We explored the area and stopped at Portuguese Sardine, which had fun-labeled sardine tins from 1954 to 2022. The tins printed different significant events each year, from the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 to the iPhone launch in 2007.

For a quick snack, we stopped by Mercardo Beria Rio, where we purchased the following:

• Pastel de Nata
• White wine sangria (delicious!)

The Pastel de Nata was outstanding, and the white wine sangria was also deliciously prepared. After some more strolling, we returned to our hotel.

Here is what Wikipedia has to say about Porto:

Porto, also known as Oporto, is the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon. It is the capital of the Porto District and one of the Iberian Peninsula's major urban areas. Porto city proper, which is the entire municipality of Porto, is small compared to its metropolitan area, with an estimated population of just 248,769 people in a municipality with only 41.42 km2 (16 sq mi).[1][10] Porto's metropolitan area has around 1.8 million people (2023)[1] in an area of 2,395 km2 (925 sq mi),[11] making it the second-largest urban area in Portugal.[12][13][14] It is recognized as a global city with a Gamma + rating from the Globalization and World Cities Research Network.[15]

Located along the Douro River estuary in northern Portugal, Porto is one of the oldest European centers, and its core was proclaimed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996 as the "Historic Centre of Porto, Luiz I Bridge and Monastery of Serra do Pilar". The historic area is also a national monument in Portugal.[16] The western part of its urban area extends to the coastline of the Atlantic Ocean. Its settlement dates back many centuries, when it was an outpost of the Roman Empire. Its combined Celtic-Latin name, Portus Cale,[17] has been referred to as the origin of Portugal, based on transliteration and oral evolution from Latin.

Port wine, one of Portugal's most famous exports, is named after Porto since the metropolitan area, particularly the Vila Nova de Gaia cellars, was responsible for the packaging, transporting, and exporting of fortified wine.[18][19] Porto is on the Portuguese Way path of the Camino de Santiago. In 2014 and 2017, Porto was elected as the Best European Destination by the Best European Destinations Agency.

 Sunday, September 22, 2024

I awoke at 07:00 to a loud alarm I had set the day before. After showering, shaving, and dressing, I waited for Inna to get ready, and then we walked downstairs to floor 2 for our breakfast.

We decided to sit indoors since the outside weather was cold and cloudy (with significant street noise). After looking at the A La Carte menu, we decided to order the following:

• Appetizer:
• Croissant and small rolls
• Cheeses: Azores, Cottage Cheese, Goat Cheese
• Ham: Iberica Ham
• Boris
• Omelette with tomatoes and mushrooms (served with tomatoes & mushrooms on the side)
• Cappuccino
• Inna
• Scrambled Eggs with smoked Salmon

After breakfast, we walked a few blocks to Carris Hotels on Ruo do Infante D. Henrique, where we ordered a Bolt car to take us to Parque e Jardim da Fundação Serralves.

Inna had pre-ordered tickets to the Yayoi Kusuma's exhibition. We arrived at around 10:00, before the crowds, and were able to walk around and enjoy all of the beautiful paintings and sculptures.

After we finished, we exited the museum and walked around the beautiful gardens, stopping by to do a Tree Walk.

Once we finished with the park, we ordered another Bolt car to take us to Do Norte Cafe (by Hungry Biker). After waiting for 10 minutes, we were assigned table 32. All of the staff spoke Portuguese, English, and Russian, and we ordered the following items:

• Drinks: Hot Tea, cappuccino, Lemonade, Water
• Shrimp Salad
• Savory Waffle with egg, hummus, and salmon

We enjoyed our Savory Waffle and Shrimp Salads! Service was quick and friendly, and we were surprised that everyone spoke Russian.

After lunch, we met our Harry Potter tour guide, Vinicius Otaviano (from Brazil), at the Sao Bento Station (between train platforms 3 and 4). He was holding a small magic wand. He took us around many sites in Porto where J.K. Rowling lived and worked.

Inna had reservations at Livrario Lello (where special first editions of J.K. Rowling's Harry Potter books are kept), and we visited the ornate bookstore. It is the most beautiful (and the busiest) bookstore I have ever visited. We purchased a fancy version of J.K. Rowling's Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone.

Our Gran Cruz Hotel made dinner reservations at Adega Dona Antonia, a few minutes from our hotel. We arrived and were seated in the downstairs cellar. After reviewing the menu, we ordered the following:

• Appetizer: Mixed Salad
• Boris: Veal, White wine
• Inna: Octopus, White wine

Inna's Octopus was fantastic - tender and delicious (and not chewy). However, my veal was a bit tough. It should have been more tender.

After dinner, we decided to walk to Torres dos Clerigos, where a daily light show is played. However, when we arrived at 21:00, we learned that the last show for Sunday was at 21:00. We decided to try returning the next day at 21:45 for the previous show.

While wandering around, we heard loud fado music and saw some dancers. We investigated and noticed a large stage with people seated in chairs - all outdoors. It looked like a free display of local fado, and we sat down to listen. It turned out to be an excellent show with three separate fado singers. I especially liked the last female singer, who sounded professional.

Here is a short video clip:

We stayed and listened for one hour (until the show ended at 22:00). It was a rare, unexpected treat to see an excellent fado show for free!

Monday, September 23, 2024

We were exhausted from the previous day's activities and woke up late, at 08:30. I took a quick shower and dressed. We walked down two flights to our usual prepaid breakfast at Gran Cruz House. We were the only patrons in the restaurant and were quickly served fresh orange juice along with fresh rolls and croissants.

We ordered the following items from the A La Carte menu:

• Appetizer: 
• Cold Cuts: Iberico Ham, Turkey Ham  
• Cheeses: Azores, Sheep, Ricotta Cheese
• Boris: Pancake with Honey & Ricotta, Cappuccino
• Inna: Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms and Tomatoes, Cappuccino, Hot Tea

After breakfast, we walked to the nearby Palacio da Bolsa. Unfortunately, the 10:45 English tour was already sold out, so we purchased the 11:45 tour. Since we had over an hour before the tour, we visited the nearby 12th-century Porto Cathedral.

We purchased the tickets (3 euros/person) and entered the cathedral. We expected to see a long knave, but there was none (perhaps it was closed for restoration). There was not much to see in this ancient cathedral. We climbed on the towers with a beautiful view of the city below. After taking photos, we returned to the cathedral's base and explored the surrounding area.

Eventually, we decided to head back to Palacio da Bolsa. We checked in and waited for our tour to begin. Our English-speaking tour guide started at 11:45 and led us through multiple chambers in the palace. The last room—the gold-leaf-decorated room in Arabian style—was the most impressive.

After the tour ended, we stopped by for a bite of Pastél de Nata and a bottle of water (for 2 euros)! The Pastel de Nata was so delicious! Since Igreja de Santa Clara was closed until 14:00, we decided to skip it and continue to see Capela das Almas da Santa Catarina. This church had beautiful blue and white tiles covering the walls. The nave was short, and actual worshippers were praying inside.

From here, we walked to the nearby Majestic Cafe, which was ranked as one of the most beautiful cafes in Portugal. We queued up to get in and waited our turn. Once seated, we ordered French Toast (highly recommended) and two black teas. Initially, we thought about ordering a typical lunch. Still, the online reviews were unfavorable (except for a few specialty items like French Toast), and we did not think the high prices for sandwiches were justified. We liked our French Toast, and our tea was excellent. The cafe reminded us of the many Viennese Cafes we had visited, as it had the same rich, luxurious interior with mirrors.

We decided to eat a standard lunch at the nearby Mercado do Balhao. After walking a few minutes there, we were impressed by the quality of the produce, the cleanliness of the market, and the reasonable prices. We ordered a small sandwich for 3.50 euros. It was not bad (though I would have liked something more spicy).

There were many mushrooms, vegetables, meats, and fish for sale. Everything looked fresh!

Inna discovered an excellent cafe nearby — Delta The Coffee House — which also baked Pastel de Nata pastries. They were freshly made and coming right out of the oven! Who can resist that? She ordered two lattes, a croissant sandwich, and two Pastels. The two Pastels were fantastic!

Once we rested briefly, we decided to head to the Crystal Palace Gardens. I ordered a Bolt car, and we were quickly driven there. We walked around the gardens, taking photos of roosters, peacocks, ducks, and other birds. We liked the grounds and the beautiful vegetation. After walking around and inquiring about the concerts that played there, we headed to the entrance to get our Uber to our next destination—a marina for our upcoming sunset cruise on the Douro River.

We had real difficulty getting a taxi using both Uber and Bolt, as there was a strike and a lot of rush hour traffic. We managed to snag an Uber car, arriving about 7 minutes late. We boarded our small Bavarian sailboat, and the captain started the engines.

We cruised to the Ponte Luis I Bridge, where we had to turn around due to its low height (our sailboat had a very high mast). From there, we sailed into the Atlantic Ocean. While on the boat, we were offered wine, port, and some small snacks. The wind was light, and it was a relaxing motor sail with excellent weather and visibility. We were fortunate!

The crew told some interesting facts about how the port-making companies. They all moved across the river from Porto to Gaia to avoid paying taxes. They thought that Sandeman made the best port.

For dinner, we asked our Gran Cruz Hotel's receptionist to make a reservation at Mistu for 21:30. It was later than we intended, but it was the only time available. After walking about 10 minutes from our hotel, we entered and waited to be seated. Once seated, we were offered the Tapas menu, and we ordered the following:

• Appetizer: Bread with 
• Drinks: Sparkling Water, Hot Black Tea
• Tapas:
• 3 Scallops
• Oriental Salad with Duck
• Sea Bass
• Dessert: Dulce de Leche Fondant

The Oriental Salad with Duck was excellent (and a generous portion was provided. The Sea Bass was also quite delicious. The scallops were tasty but relatively small (I expected larger). The Dulce de Leche Fondant was exceptional, too (though we waited a very long time).

Porto Trip Review

Highlights

• Visiting Serralves in time to see Yayoi Kusama's eclectic art exhibit
• Dining in a trendy Mistu Restaurant
• Tasting Pastel de Nata pastries at Mercado Beria Rio and in Delta The Coffee House
• Following the Harry Potter tour of Porto, with stops at:
• Majestic Cafe
• Lello Bookshop
• Sailing on the Douro River and watching the sunset
• Strolling through Crystal Palace Gardens
• Visiting the ornate rooms in Palacio da Bolsa
• Listening to Fado
• Tasting different port wines in the Gran Cruz House, including:
• Ruby (my favorite, by far)
• Blanco
• Rose

Lowlights

• Dealing with jet lag and general sleepiness
• Did not have time to visit the light show at Torre dos Clerigos