After visiting Obidos and Caldas da Rainha, we drove for 30 minutes to Buddha Eden Garden of Peace in Bombarral.
Once we purchased our tickets (12.00 euros/person), we waited to board a train to ride around the gardens. We got off at our first stop and started taking many photos. The train is quite slow and has few stops. Next time, I would probably skip it completely.
The gardens are enormous and beautiful, and we were pleasantly surprised by the number and quality of the sculptures. There had to be over 1,000 Buddha statues (and many modern art sculptures too)
Some Buddha statues are enormous, and we can climb on top and enjoy the view.
There were also hundreds of modern sculptures, which we loved. We did not expect to see so many!
We spent over three hours at the gardens and could have spent the whole day! It's such a large and impressive park.
Buddha Eden Trip Report
Highlights
Visiting the giant Buddha statues
Discovering all of amazing contemporary/modern sculptures
Lowlights
Early closing time of 6:00pm (I wish it was later)
After stopping at Obidos, we had some free time and decided to visit the spa town of Caldas da Rainha.
Once we found free parking in Caldas da Rinha, we strolled through the Parque Dom Carlos I, which overlooks a small lake with rowboats and large hospitals.
If we had time, we would have liked to stroll through the park and enjoy the beautiful scenery and the little pond overlooking the hospitals.
Being pressed for time, we decided to see the downtown and explore the nearby shops. One of the streets was lined with cute umbrellas.
Caldas da Rainha is a cute little spa town with interesting shops.
At the 2011 census, the municipality had a population of 51,729 in an area of 255.69 square kilometers (98.72 sq mi), with 30,343 residing there. Although the city lies about 10.5 kilometers (6.5 mi) inland, three of the municipality's civil parishes lie on the Atlantic Ocean. Caldas da Rainha is best known for its sulfurous hot springs and ceramicpottery.
The settlement was founded in the 15th century by Queen Leonor (Rainha Dona Leonor), who established a hospital and a church at the site of some therapeutic hot springs. The Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor (Queen Leonor Spring Water Hospital, or Thermal Hospital) is the oldest purpose-built institution in the world, with five centuries of history. The city's name, often shortened to simply "Caldas," can be translated as "Queen's Hot Springs," "Queen's Spa," or "Queen's Baths."
Caldas da Rainha is a UNESCO Creative City. It is home to many cultural institutions. The city's nine museums cover art, history, and cycling. Cultural and sports venues include Centro Cultural e de Congressos (CCC, Cultural and Conference Centre), a center for performing arts, exhibitions, and conferences; Expoeste РCentro de Exposi̵̤es do Oeste (Exhibition Centre of the West), which hosts exhibitions and festivals; a bullring; several football (soccer) pitches; and a multi-sport municipal complex.
Caldas hosts six professional and higher-educational institutions, including a significant arts and design school and a school devoted to ceramics. In 2014, Caldas da Rainha had the best public secondary school in Portugal based on national test scores.
After a delicious breakfast at Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas, we packed our suitcases and drove to Obidos. It was about 08:30, and some rush-hour traffic slowed us down on our way.
We arrived in Obidos' vicinity around 10:00 and parked in the unpaved but Free Parking lot. From there, we walked across the street and entered the medieval city of Obidos (protected by city walls).
According to Wikipedia, the history of (Obidos) is quite interesting:
The name "Óbidos" is a Latinised (oppidum, citadel) derivation of the older Celtic "Eburobricio." The municipality grew from a Roman settlement near the foothills of an elevated escarpment. The region of Óbidos, extending from the Atlantic to the interior of Estremadura Province along the rivers and lakes has been inhabited since the late Paleolithic.[3] A settlement constructed by early Celt tribes later became a trade center for the Phoenicians.[3] Archeological evidence from the base of the medieval tower (south of Facho) at Óbidos Castle indicates Roman construction linked to an outpost of the Roman civitas of Eburobrittium, a large urban area under excavation.[3] Archeological surveys determined the remains of a forum, baths, and other Roman structures near the settlement.
After the fall of Rome, the region came under the influence of the Visigoths, although specific records are missing. The Roman town of Eburobrittium was abandoned in the 5th century for the more secure hilltop where the principal settlement is today. Sometime after 713, the Moors established a fortification on this mountain, while a Christian community of Mozarabs lived in the Moncharro neighborhood.
The castle and walls of Óbidos were remodeled during the reign of King Dinis I.[3] The limestone and marble structure was strengthened and elaborated when King Fernando created the keep in the 14th century. By the time of the first remodeling project, the settlement had also grown beyond the castle gates.
The Church of Santa Maria in Óbidos was the setting for the wedding of King Afonso V to his cousin, Princess Isabella of Coimbra, on 15 August 1441, when they were both still children aged 9 and 10, respectively.[3] Administrative reforms conducted by King Manuel I at Óbidos in 1513, included the institution of a formal charter and major requalification of the urban area.[3]
The 1755 earthquake caused damage to the village walls, a few churches, and many buildings and resulted in the loss of architecture of Arab and Medieval inspiration.[3] Similarly, the Peninsular Wars were fought near Óbidos, including the Battle of Roliça.[3] More recently, the village was a center of government and a meeting place for those involved in the 1974 Carnation Revolution, linking it to the armed forces movement revolt.
We initially tried climbing the Obidos' City Walls for a breathtaking view of the surroundings. The walls were high, without any rails or protection, so I had to be careful how and where I stepped.
After walking around for some time, we returned and continued our tour of Obidos from the inside. There were many restaurants, gift shops, bakeries, fashion stores, and jewelry stores. Inna stopped by a few shops.
We stopped by the Obidos Chocolate House to taste chocolates and drink coffee. We purchased a sampler of chocolates but were not impressed. However, the coffee was excellent.
Eventually, we strolled to the highly-rated bakery Capinha d'Óbidos. We sampled a few parties and were delighted!
From there, we stopped by a Livraria de São Tiago - a bookstore inside a church. It had many books in English and Portuguese, and we spent some time reading.
We continued our walk to the Castelo de Óbidos. We climbed the city walls to take additional photos.
From here, we decided to find a suitable restaurant for lunch. We considered the following:
Since Inna had pre-purchased tickets to the 15:00 English-speaking Tour of the University of Coimbra Library, we ordered Uber to take us there on time.
Arriving on schedule, we waited for our tour to begin at the Ticket Office. Our tour-guide, Patricia, was excellent (with perfect British English pronunciation). She provided us with headsets to hear explanations as we wandered around and took photos.
Patricia answered our numerous questions and provided some interesting tidbits:
Coimbra is one of the oldest universities but has no residence halls.All students live nearby and commute.
Coimbra University tuition is 850.00 euros per year for Portuguese citizens (but does not include the cost of housing, food, or books)
The university used to have two private jail cells for students who broke the code (i.e., ignoring the 6:00 pm curfew), but this is no longer true. We visited the solitary confinement cells.
A guard accompanied jailed students to class and returned them to their cells after class.
At around 17:30, we finally found our way to Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas (from Casal de Sao Simao). Though we arrived 30 minutes earlier, we could not find the car entrance, and both Google Maps and Apple Maps had incorrect instructions.
We called the hotel, and the receptionist explained how to use the service entrance. Once inside the hotel's driveway, I had to back up my Nissan Qashqai and park near the reception (after getting help from a valet attendant).
We checked into room #46 in the new wing and decided to get some rest by going to the sauna and the pool. The Turkish sauna was quite hot, and we spent a few minutes there. We rested for 30 minutes by the pool. Although the pool closes at 21:00, the sauna and the steam room close at 19:00.
We returned to our room and dressed for dinner. We previously requested 20:00 dinner reservations at Terraco Bairrada docs (across the river), but the hotel could not get through. The hotel called again and was able to make reservations.
At first, we considered using Bolt or UberX, as Google Maps indicated a 30-minute walk. However, this was incorrect (again), and we followed our hotel's advice to walk there. (The walk to the restaurant was only 10 minutes).
On the way there, we heard loud music and did not know where it came from or what it was. Later on, our dinner hostess explained that it was the famous concert:
A Reuniao Morangos com Acucar (Reunion of Strawberries and Sugar)
Featuring 3 Bands:
DZRT
4Taste
Just Girls (Morangos com Acucar)
We walked over a beautifully lit pedestrian bridge, "Ponte Pedonal Pedro e Ines," across the Mondego River. From there, we could see the waterfront, the concert, and Coimbra.
When we reached our restaurant, we saw the name Terraco Bairrada on the door and decided to sit outside. However, when we were handed the menu, we realized that the actual restaurant was upstairs, and this area was mostly for drinks and snacks.
Once upstairs, we decided to sit indoors, as the concert was loud. After looking at the menu and discussing various options, we ordered the following items:
Drinks: 2 x Local White wine, Pellegrino, 2 x Hot Black Tea
Main: Arroz de Peixes (Fish Stew for 2 people)
Dessert: Petit Gateaux (excellent)
The fish stew was delicious (though Inna usually does not care for stews). The Petit Gateaux was fabulous!
Sunday, September 29, 2024
After waking up at 08:15, I showered and dressed. Inna was very tired but eventually got up. We walked downstairs to the Quinta das Lagrimas Restaurant and told the waitress our room #42.
We were seated at a small table for two and waited for coffee to be poured before heading to the buffet.
At the buffet, we noticed an Omelet Station and ordered the following omelets:
Boris: Omelet with Mushrooms, tomatoes, peppers
Inna: Omelet with Mushrooms, tomatoes, ham, and onions
The omelets were well made but nothing special. We tried various breads and small pastries for dessert, though we still preferred Pastel de Nuta. I also ordered an espresso (and Inna ordered black tea). Lately, I have preferred espresso to drip coffee.
After breakfast, we decided to walk around the various Quinta das Lagrimas Gardens.
We started our walk at the Romantic Garden, where we noticed some guests formally dressed for the upcoming wedding in the garden. The garden was beautiful, though I can't say what made it "Romantic."
From the Romantic Garden, we walked to the Golf Area. I did not know there was a golf course at the hotel. If I had time, I could practice putting and golf swings (for distance).
We walked to the Medieval Garden from the Golf area, where the wedding ceremony was set up. Many photographers took photos of the Hoopa, which looked very nice.
After taking a few photos, we walked along hiking trails to the Old Forest (Velha), stopping at the Lagrimas Fountain.
The Legend:
We were in the middle of the 14th century when D. Pedro, Prince Heir to the Portuguese Throne, and D.ª Inês de Castro, Castilian maid of Princess Consort D. Constança, gave in to the passion that united them.
Defying the rules and social precepts of the time, the two lovers met secretly in Quinta das Lágrimas's gardens and continued attending even after Pedro's widowhood.
This relationship, strongly disapproved and condemned by the people and the court, would come to an abrupt end in 1355, when by order of King Afonso IV, D. Inês was beheaded.
Legend has it that in the place where Inês was killed, a fountain sprouted whose waters stem from her tears. The blood of her body would forever stain the stones of the fountain. Even today, in the Fonte das Lágrimas, there is a strange stain of red algae on the rock.
Mad with pain, and after having assumed the King's crown in Portugal in 1357, Pedro ordered the arrest and death of Inês's murderers, tearing their hearts out himself.
After visiting the gardens, we walked across the Mondego River (over the pedestrian bridge) and saw the city's main sites. Our first stop was the Old Cathedral of Saint Mary of Coimbra (Se Velha de Coimbra). We paid the entrance fee (2.50 euros/person) and went inside.
This Romanesque Cathedral was built like an impregnable fort, with small windows and thick walls. We walked around taking photos and then proceeded upstairs to see the cloisters.
Our next stop was the visit to the Santa Cruz Church (Igreja de Santa Cruz), where the remains of two Portuguese kings are buried. It was much more impressive than the Old Cathedral, and we spent much more time here.
On the second floor, a Choir section (with seating for singers) was separate from the rest of the Church. I had not ever seen this done before.
As we were getting hungry, we continued our walk to Nau Specialty Coffee, where we ate a light lunch. We ordered the following items:
Inna: Latte, Burrata
Boris: Mocha, Sandwich
This was the first coffee shop with a "Mocha" on the menu (so I had to order it). It was delicious.
After visiting the New Cathedral, we still had time for other activities. Inna suggested that we try listening to Fado, as it is sung by men in Coimbra (Women sing Fado in Lisbon and Porto). We purchased tickets for the 18:00 show (50 minutes long) at Fado Centro.
After sitting in the small room, we were treated to a concert by a combination of two to four musicians playing Fado. There were two guitarists and one to two singers. The singers were students from the University of Coimbra with good voices. However, to me, fado or "fate" is about expressing emotion - heartbreak, sorrow, etc. I felt nothing listening to these Fado musicians, so I cannot rate them highly.
After listening to Fado, we decided to eat dinner at the highly recommended (by our Quinta das Lagrimas staff and Google) Sete Restaurant. I made reservations for 19:00.
After being seated indoors, we looked at the menu and ordered the following items:
Appetizer: Seven Flavors Salad with Moscatel Jelly, Bread, Olives
The Octopus was mediocre ( a bit too chewy), and the Lamb Shank was difficult to cut (it should have been softer). I did enjoy the chestnut puree (which was smooth and sweet).
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped to listen to a street musician - Eli MacFerry. He played and sang quite well. In general, we have encountered many excellent street musicians in Portugal.
Here is a video of Eli MacFerry playing guitar and singing "Harvest Moon."
We also stopped by the Mondego River waterfront to enjoy the beautifully lit fountains.
Monday, September 30, 2024
After waking up, we packed our suitcases and hurried to breakfast.
We checked out of our hotel and started our drive to Obidos at 08:30. There was a lot of rush hour traffic, but the drive was relatively easy along the beautiful Portuguese roads.
At noon, after checking out of H2otel / Aquadome in Unhais de Terra, we drove the Nissan Qashqai to Casal de Sao Simao so that we could hike along the wooden floorboards to the famous "Passadico das Fragas de Sao Simao."
Upon arrival at 14:00, we were hungry and decided to stop for lunch at Restaurante Varanda do Casal. It was an unexpectedly fancy restaurant at such an unusual location. After being seated, we ordered the following items:
Appetizer: Bread, Olives
Drinks: Espresso, Sparkling Water, Tea
Main: Venison (Deer) Pie with Fresh Salad
Our Venison Pie was quite large and delicious! I also really liked the salad and the espresso. This was an unexpectedly excellent Portuguese restaurant (in the middle of nowhere).
After lunch, we headed for our hike to Fragas De Sao Simao. Inna thought it would be relatively flat, but it was a steep climb down and then up.
Once we climbed down, we saw some people gathered around pools of water, where some were swimming. Swimming here would have been nice (except for the icy water).
We climbed over 450 steps to reach the top (Fragas de Sa Simao). At the top, we took many photos and admired the view. We saw a statue of a boy named "Land of Dreams."
The way down was more manageable, though climbing back to Casal De Sao Simao was still challenging.
Casal De Sao Simao Trip Report
Highlights
Hiking to Fragas de Sao Simao (Rocks of Sao Simao)
At around 09:30, we started our one-hour drive to Piodao from Unhais da Serra. The road was extraordinarily twisty and narrow, but it had beautiful views of the surrounding hills and mountains. Some of the hills were purple (perhaps Jacaranda).
Upon reaching Piodao, we parked our car and added extra layers of clothing, as it was a chill 50 F outside, overcast, and windy.
After a brief stop at Piodao's tourism office, we started our hike to Foz d'Egua using the iPhone's Alltrails app:
PR2 - AGN - Piodao -Foz d'Egua
The hike was a 4-mile round trip with 1,040 feet of elevation gain. As the local tourist office recommended, we started our hike in a reverse-clockwise direction (opposite to the way suggested by Alltrails).
The trail from Piodao to Foz d'Egua was clean and easy, with few steep ascents and descents. We noticed a few abandoned dwellings and took many photos. We reached Foz d'Egua in just over an hour, taking many pictures of the beautiful small house (they looked like houses for Hobbits in the Lord of the Rings).
We hoped to get a drink of coffee at the cafe there, but when we finally reached it, it was closed.
The way back to Piadao was more difficult, as there were some very steep ascents (and these are what make the trail moderate instead of easy).
After another 80 minutes, we reached Piodao and decided to rest at a nearby Solar restaurant, where we ordered the following items for lunch:
Drinks: Water, espresso, hot tea
Appetizer: Tapas Diversas (meats & cheeses)
Main: Chanfana (cooked goat meat with potatoes)
Dessert: Local pastry
Many cats were hoping to get a treat (and Inna gave one cat some small bits of cheese). One of the cats was a bit aggressive and almost jumped on our table.
We liked the Chanfana, as it tasted homemade. The tapas were excellent, too.
Piodao Trip Report
Highlights
Hiking from Piadao to Foz d'Egua
Lowlights
Morning rain, fog, and wind on Wednesday
Navigating through very narrow, frequently one-way roads
The Case of the Mysteriously Appearing Dog
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A strange thing happened to me the other day. I was hiking in an open
space preserve where we hold the NatureOutside winery hikes. A winery sits
at o...
