Saturday, September 23, 2023

Magical Sorrento

Saturday, September 23, 2023    No comments

On Friday, September 23, 2023, Inna and I planned to board a direct flight from San Francisco (SFO) to Rome aboard ITA Airways (formerly Alitalia), Italy, on the way to Sorrento, Italy.

  • Departure: Flight AZ641 from San Fransisco Intl Terminal 1 at 15:15
  • Arrival: Flight AZ641 Rome Fiumicino Terminal 1 at 12:05

Once we landed in Rome, we planned to board a train to Naples, where we would switch to another train to Sorrento.


 

Friday, September 22, 2023

I ordered UberX at noon, and we were picked up at around 12:06 on our way to San Francisco International Airport. We arrived at 12:47 and went to the ITA Airlines counter to check in and pick up our airline tickets.

Inna surprised me by letting me know that our airline tickets had been upgraded to Sky Priority/Business Class, making our flight to Rome more pleasant and relaxing. We would now be able to sleep on the plane!

Since we are members of the Global Traveler program, we waited in a much shorter line to get to the gates. Since we were there early, we stopped by the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse/Lounge (for which ITA tickets allowed entry).


In the Virgin Clubhouse, we ordered the following items (for free):

  • Sparkling Water
  • Noodles with Kimchi
  • Croissant with jam
  • Apple

The noodles were mediocre, and the croissant was uninspiring, but I have no complaints about free food.

At around 13:30, the online menu at Virgin Clubhouse changed to offer burgers and large plates, but we were no longer famished (so we declined to order more plates).

At 14:20, we decided to walk to gate A9, where our flight started boarding. Since we were flying Sky Priority class, we could board the Airbus A350 immediately.


Our seats were 9D and 9H in the middle of the plane, but they had excellent accommodations.


The business class seats in the new ITA Airbus A350 were terrific. I could recline fully and sleep and had full access to chargers and a large Android screen for playing movies (which started working after the flight was in the air).


As I sat down in my seat, a waiter immediately offered me drinks. I decided on orange juice, while Inna selected sparkling water. 



Our flight AZ641 took off at around 15:00 (right on time), and we were quickly on our way to Rome. The flight to Rome was smooth, with little turbulence, and the Airbus A350 performed well.

At about 16:30, the flight staff started to prepare our dinner. A waiter came by to collect our order and then designed a white linen cloth (along with silverware) for our meal.

  • Drinks: Sparkling Water
  • Appetizer: Shrimp
  • 1st Course: Pasta with Red Sauce and Cheese
  • 2nd Course: Sea Bass with Potatoes
  • Dessert: Cheese Plate

This was the best airline dinner I've ever eaten! The Shrimp appetizer was excellent, and the Sea Bass was well prepared. The cheese plate was amazing, too.


During dinner, Inna and I started watching shows and movies on the built-in screen. I watched the following movies:

After watching the movies, I decided to try sleeping and reclined my seat back. It was very nice to be able to lay down completely flat. There was still some outside noise (which sometimes made it difficult to sleep). I used earplugs, which helped.

 

Saturday, September 23, 2023

Because of the 9-hour time difference, our flight crew adjusted to the new Rome timezone and served breakfast about 2 hours before landing in Rome.


For breakfast, I selected the following items from the breakfast menu:

  • Coffee
  • Fruit plate with mango, apples, etc.
  • Pastry plate with various croissants and Strawberry Jam

I enjoyed the breakfast (though I usually skip it as part of my fasting routine). 

 


Our Airbus A350 landed about 30 minutes early (at 11:30) at Rome's Fiumicino airport, about 32 minutes away from Rome by fast train. Once we passed passport control, we found the train station for the Roma Termini. We used the Trenitalia vending machine to purchase the tickets and boarded the train.


Our Leonardo Express Treno 4615 departed at 12:24 and arrived at 13:00. The train took about 36 minutes to reach Roma Termini station.

After arriving at Roma Termini, we were initially lost as we needed help finding the main part with tickets. We eventually found the central train station, walked through the Coin Department Store, and purchased our tickets from a Trenitalia vending machine (with the help of a nice English-speaking Trenitalia Rep).

We purchased 2 first-class seats on Train 8907, which left Roma Termini at 13:30 and arrived in Napoli Centrale at 14:43. The cost was relatively high, at 56.00 euros/adult. However, this was a high-speed train, reaching 300km/h on some stretches of the track.

Initially, we tried to find the connecting station to Sorrento but eventually found that Line 1 had the correct local train. We purchased 2 tickets (4.90 euro/adult) and waited for the 13:55 train (as we just missed the 13:20 train). This was a slow-moving train that made lots of stops.

We finally arrived in Sorrento at 17:10 and wheeled our luggage to our Unique Bed & Breakfast, located at:

Corso Italia 185
80067, Sorrento 
Italy
 
After walking a few blocks (while our luggage bounced on the cobblestones), we found our Unique B&B and rang the phone. Simone (the Unique B&B agent) answered our call and showed us our room on the top floor. He also took the time to explain the use of 4 keys needed to lock and unlock the various doors and the use of different kitchen appliances in our room. Our apartment was at the very top of the building, with a beautiful view of Sorrento and the Tyrrhenian Sea.

He also provided a list of recommended restaurants in Sorrento for breakfast and dinner:

As we settled in our room, we immediately spotted a wedding below (always a good omen):


After dropping off and unpacking our bags, we strolled around Sorrento to explore its many streets and shops. We were surprised by the crowds in the city, which we expected to be relatively quiet in late September.


We also walked to the waterfront to examine the Marina Piccolo (Small Marina), which has a small beach, a boat harbor, and a ferry dock.

Since most of the restaurants looked full (with all outdoor tables taken), we might have difficulty finding a table at the Fishing Village, away from the main tourist areas near our rental.

After strolling around the Fishing Village and looking at the menus of various restaurants, we decided to try the highly recommended Bagni Delfino (which also happened to have free tables).

After sitting down, we looked at the menu and ordered the following items:

  • Appetizer: Burrata & Prosciutto
  • Boris: Scialat Scoglio (Pasta with Seafood)
  • Inna: Spig Griglia, Rucola Pomodori

The food quality was excellent, and Inna was ecstatic about the freshness of her freshly filleted (right in front of us) Sea Bass. My Pasta with Seafood was perfect, too.

For dessert, we stopped by for gelato at Fresco Gelateria (which was highly rated).

I selected a medium cup for 4.00 euros, with Pistachio and Amarino Cherry. Inna chose a small cup for 3.00 euros, with Rum and Raisins and Chocolate with Orange. Inna's Rum and Raisins gelato was fabulous, but my Pistachio was excellent, too.

We returned to our apartment, full but tired and ready for sleep. However, we could hear the festivities outside past midnight. 

Sunday, September 24, 2023

Since Inna booked a group tour in Pompei (a Small Group Guide Tour with an archaeologist.), we woke at 6:30 and dressed for the upcoming trip. Inna took a shower, but I decided to skip it (as I had taken a shower the night before).

I write about our visit to Pompei and Naples in separate posts below:

When we returned to Sorrento from Naples (after 22:00), we heard music at the nearby square with Alessia Fabiano, a live singer, at Bar Ercoland on Corso Italia near our rental. 

We decided to listen to Alessia and sat down at a table. We ordered the following items from the menu:

  • Inna: Insalata Caprese, Green Tea, Pellegrino
  • Boris: Black Tea

The Insalata Caprese was delicious. Alessia Fabiano sang all the favorite American and Italian jazz standards. 

We enjoyed listening to her sing and observing the happy-go-lucky crowd nearby (who sometimes danced along).

When we returned to our room, we could hear the sounds of karaoke and other parties still ongoing (well, until 2:00). I used earplugs to dampen the sound.


Monday, September 25, 2023

For my 55th birthday, Inna booked a boat trip to the Amalfi Coast. However, bad weather forced the trip to be rescheduled for another day.

We stopped by for breakfast at Gentile Cafe, where Inna and I shared cappuccinos and pastries.

Instead, Inna and I decided to hike the famous Path of the Gods Trail from Agerola to Positano. I write about our hike in a separate blog post here:

To celebrate my birthday, Inna also made a secret 19:30 dinner reservation at Michelin-rated Il Buco. 

After returning from Positano (by ferry), we changed into evening wear and walked a few minutes to the restaurant. When we sat at our table, the chef offered a few complimentary hors d'oeuvres, freshly baked bread, crackers, and breadsticks. 


Looking at the menu, Inna and I ordered the following items from the menu:

  • Boris:
    • Appetizer: Bufala (Buffalo mozzarella salad with local vegetables)
    • Pasta: Ravioli stuffed with Octopus
    • Main: Spigola (Sea bass filet on cauliflower cream)
  • Inna:
    • Land & Territory Chef's tasting menu
      • Buffalo mozzarella
      • Tacos with overcooked beef
      • Tubetti creamed in aubergine parmesan sauce
      • Beef cheek in Barolo wine, cream of celery root, melted cheese and pepper jam
      • Wild strawberry tart with foam of meringue, orange sauce, and limoncello ice cream

I really enjoyed my birthday dinner! The dinner was delicious! My birthday dessert had a candle in it (a nice touch)!


Tuesday, September 26, 2023

Inna booked Luciano, a private tour guide, for an 8-hour Amalfi Coast tour with stops in Positano, Amalfi, and Ravelo.

We woke at 7:00, showered, and dressed to prepare for the tour. At 7:45, we left our room and walked 3 minutes to Gentile Cafe (our favorite nearby cafe) for breakfast.


I write about our Amalfi Car Tour in a separate blog post here:

After returning from the tour, we rested in our room and stopped by for dinner in Sorrento. We walked down Corso Italia, looking at various restaurants. Most restaurants were busy because it was prime dinner time (after 19:00), and most of their tables were filled to capacity.



We decided to walk down to Marina Grande (Fishing Village) and try eating at Trattoria da Emilia. After a 13-minute walk, we reached Emilia and sat in a queue for dinner. Unlike other restaurants, one queues up for dinner at Trattoria da Emilia by sitting down in chairs.


 

We looked at the menu and ordered the following items:

  • Drinks: 0.5 liters of white wine, sparkling water
  • Appetizer:Antipasto della casa
  • Pasta: Ravioli Caprese
  • Entree: Filet of Sea bass (grilled)
First, a large plate of Antipasto with buffalo mozzarella, salami, prosciutto, etc., was brought out. We really enjoyed it a lot. Next, we shared four freshly made ravioli caprese. The ravioli were newly created and tasted excellent. The last dish—filet of Sea bass—was brought out next. While it tasted good, it still had some bones, so I must be extra careful eating it. The wine was only 5.00 euros for 500ml—a real bargain.


After dinner, we returned to Corso Italia and walked around, marveling at the crowds still out at this late hour. Although Sorrento is a tiny city, it's different from San Jose, California. There is life until midnight, while in San Jose, everything shuts down after 21:00.



Since our favorite Fresco gelateria was closed, we stopped by Bougainvillea and purchased some gelato. I selected a cone with Rum'n Raisin and Sicilian Almonds. I really liked both flavors. Inna selected a cup of Chocolate with Orange flavors. All of the gelato flavors were delicious!

We had another wonderful day in Sorrento!


Wednesday, September 27, 2023

Inna made reservations for a small boat tour of Capri. We woke at 7:00 and did not even have time for breakfast. Fortunately, our skipper Giovanni had some snacks and sandwiches onboard.

I write about our Capri Boat tour in a separate blog post here:

After the boat trip to Capri, we returned to Sorento's Marina Piccola l at around 16:00. Bidding goodbye to our skipper Giovanni (who was quite amusing) and our fellow boat companions, we strolled to the Ferry terminal's ticket counter to inquire about sailings to Ischia (our next destination). From Sorrento, ferries sail to Ischia at 9:10 and 9:30 (direct).

Once we understood the sailing times, we walked over to the elevator to ride to the top (as Inna's ankle was hurting), and we wanted to avoid unnecessary stress on her leg. The ride to the top was 1.10 euros per person.

 A few people were swimming in the Tyrrhenian Sea, but it did not seem like the best beach (though the water was clear).


At the top, we wandered around Villa Communale di Sorrento and stopped for a quick peek at Chiostro di San Francesco. There was nothing of note in the church, so we quickly left and stopped by for gelato and drinks at La Villa Restaurant & Bar.


We sat down and ordered the following drinks and snacks:

  • Gelato: Pistachio, Nocciole
  • Appetizer: Bruschettata
  • Drinks: Cold Cappucino with Cream
The Bruschetta was delicious, and the cold coffee was good(but I prefer the Cafe Creme in Naples). La Villa has excellent scenic views, and the drinks were not wrong. 

After a short rest stop, we walked back to our rental on 185 Corso Italia. Inna decided to go shopping while I returned home to rest.



For dinner, we decided to try Cafe Latino. After waiting in line for 20 minutes, we were finally seated at our table.

We ordered the following items:

  • Appetizer: Antipasto Cafe Latino 
  • Entree:  Pizza Li Mortazzi


Both the Antipasto and Mortazzi Pizza were excellent. However, the waiter service was very slow.




Thursday, September 28, 2023

Inna initially planned Thursday to be a "free" day in Sorrento, but we rescheduled our Private Boat Tour of the Amalfi Coast for Thursday.


We had an outstanding time boating and swimming on the Amalfi Coast. I write about our adventures in a separate blog post here:

After returning from the private boat trip, we stopped by our rental at Corso Italia 185. Inna's ankle was bothering her, and she needed to rest and recuperate. I stopped by the nearby Hertz Agency (on Corso Italia 221B) to verify that my Hertz car rental was all set for Monday, October 2. All was well. (Tutte Bene!) But I had to be mindful that the Hertz rental agency was closed from 13:00 to 15:00 for lunch! (This caused me some concern when we returned from Ischia)

Inna took a shower and relaxed. The hot shower helped to ease her ankle pain. I also took a shower and packed my suitcase (to prepare for our departure for Ischia the next day).

At around 19:00, we decided to start getting ready for dinner. We decided to try dining at the Ristorante Sorrento o'Parrrucchiono La Favorita. I tried making reservations at the restaurant but could never get through. We decided to try anyway, and I stopped there at 19:30. However, a considerable crowd was ahead. When we finally saw the hostess, she only allowed parties with previous reservations. She said we could come in at 21:15 without reservations (but that would be too late). We really liked the restaurant's decor and will try it again the next time we visit Sorrento.


Since Da Gigino Pizzeria was also well-rated, we decided to try eating dinner there. We stopped by and were quickly seated inside. After looking at the menu, we ordered the following items:

  • Boris: Caprese Salad
  • Inna: Gigino Salad (with Salmon)
  • Shared Pizza: Capricciosa
  • Drinks: Mineral Water with gas
We liked both of our appetizer salads. I never tire of eating Caprese salad with fresh tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. 
 

 
The Capricciosa pizza was also excellent. While less delicate than a pizza from Naples, it was the best we've had in Sorrento.
 

 
After dinner, we stopped by Fresco Gellateria for a small taste of gelato. I ordered a cone with Pistachio and Rum Raisin—the Rum Raisin was especially divine! Inna ordered a medium cup with Chocolate/Orange and Rum Raisin.  
 

 

Sorrento Trip Report

Highlights

Lowlights


 




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