Relaxing on Ischia

To relax during our two-week trip to southern Italy, Inna made reservations for 3 days at the San Montana Resort & Spa on the island of Ischia (off the coast of Naples). Ischia is one hour away from Sorrento by ferry (making it convenient to visit).

Friday, September 29, 2023

While in Sorrento, we woke at 7:00, dressed, and packed our bags. After eating our usual breakfast at Gentile Cafe Sorrento (and withdrawing 120 euros from the nearby Deutsche Bank), we returned to our apartment rental at 185 Corse Italia to return our keys to our host.

After we paid the city tax (6.00 euro/day), our host helped to carry our suitcases downstairs to the courtyard. We walked to the nearby Viale Enrico Caruso, where all the taxis are usually parked, and loaded our bags into a Mercedes Benz taxi. Our driver took us to the ferry terminal, charging us 20.00 euros for the taxi service.

We queued up in line for ferry tickets to Ischia, purchasing 2 one-way tickets for the 9:10 sailing. We loaded our suitcases aboard the ferry and waited for the ferry to depart.

Our ferry's first stop was the island of Procida (which I had never heard of before). It's known for Palazzo D'Avalos and Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo. Our ferry was docked only briefly at Procida before continuing to Ischia.

At about 10:10, we docked at Ischia, carrying our suitcases off the boat. We found a taxi, which took us to San Montana Resort & Spa, a 5-star thermal resort Inna booked for 3 nights. The taxi cost was 48.00 euros (though the taxi driver initially quoted 40 - 45 euros).

Since we arrived early and our room was not yet ready (it would be prepared at 13:00), we changed into swimsuits and decided to try out all of the resort's pools.

For lunch, we decided to eat at the resort at around 13:00, selecting the following items:

• Appetizer: Insalata di Polpo
• Boris: Pizza dei Pizzaioli
• Inna: Pizza de Terra Mia (anchovies + buffalo mozzarella)

My Pizza dei Pizzaioli was not very impressive. It seemed underwhelming (after Naples). Inna's Pizza de Terra Mia was better, but she hated the anchovies in the Pizza.

After lunch, we relaxed by the many thermal pools, taking turns swimming in one of the numerous pools (and swimming some laps in the ocean water pool below). Inna and I swam 40 laps for a total of 1,000 yards.

To make the most of her spa experience, Inna made an appointment for a spa treatment at 16:00, and she really enjoyed her treatment there.

After Inna returned, she showed me all the attractive indoor spa facilities, including multiple saunas. We tried the two saunas and the enjoyable hot/cold walking on the rocks pathway.

Inna was impressed with our room #305, which was upgraded (for free) to a suite with an outdoor jacuzzi and a fabulous sunset view. We really enjoyed it!

We decided to eat dinner at 19:30, but the Hotel's restaurant was closed until 20:00 (its usual opening time). 

We spent some time at the upstairs bar, listening to music and having drinks. The music sounded live but was coming from a recording.

We ordered the following drinks from the bar's menu:

• Boris: Margarita
• Innal Virgin Mojito

The cocktails were alright, but I've had better Margaritas. After the dinner restaurant opened, we walked downstairs to get a table at around 20:30. 

After being seated, we selected the following items from the dinner menu:

• Appetizer: Caprese Salad
• Pasta: Candela alla Genovese
• Inna: Spigola Pomodore Frigatelli (Sea bass)
• Boris: Pescatore di Giorno (Fish of the Day) Red Tuna
• Dessert: Cheesecake

The Caprese Salad and Candella alla Genovese pasta was also deliciously prepared. We enjoyed our delicious dinner!

After dinner, we filled out our private outdoor jacuzzi and enjoyed sitting outside, though the jets did not work.

Overall, we had a fantastic first day at San Montana Resort!

Saturday, September 30, 2023

I set my alarm for 7:00, woke up, showered, and dressed to work out in the resort's gym. Both Inna and I had plans to work out for 30 minutes at 7:30, but we were a bit late, arriving at 8:10.

I initially did not see the stationary cycles (which I usually use for my cardio portion), so I selected the treadmill overlooking the water. I set it for 6 km/h with a significant incline. After completing 30 minutes of the treadmill, I did a few reps of leg and arm weights.

Inna did some exercises as well and finished with the treadmill. At around 9:00, we finished our workout and returned to our room to shower and dress for breakfast.

At around 9:30, we walked to our breakfast restaurant and sat at a table with gorgeous views. Inna ordered an Americano coffee (which turned out to be very delicious), and I ordered a cappuccino initially (and then a coffee later). 

The Hotel's buffet had many choices, including pastries, croissants, deli meats, local cheeses, jams, and many sweets, including a honeycomb. There were machines for making fresh orange juice out of oranges (but I don't drink juice anymore).

I asked the gentlemen at the meat counter to slice up some delicious Italian deli meats, and he filled my plate. They were so delicious! I also added buffalo mozzarella (which tasted amazing). After eating all the meats, I stopped by for a second round, choosing small samples of desserts to try.

I really liked the Nutella-filled pastry and the honey from an actual honeycomb. They were simply amazing.

I loved the fresh Americano coffee the waitress brought me, too. I don't know the Italian secret for making coffee, but my attempts at using the French Press could have been more impressive. The Americano was not bitter and had excellent flavors.

After breakfast, we decided to see the highly-rated Giardini La Mortella (La Mortella Gardens). Our Hotel provided a free shuttle (a 7-minute ride) to take us there.

We explored the gardens, marveling at the beautiful Victoria Lilies and other plants. We took plenty of photos and really enjoyed many of the scenes.

We really enjoyed the following highlights in the La Mortella Garden:

• Aloe Garden (many large aloe plants)
• Sir William's Rock
• Aquatic Plants
• Temple of the Sun (with plants and erotic Greek scenes)
• 3 separate rooms for Birth, Life, and Death
• Crocodile Waterfall (in a pond with water lilies)
• Greek Theater (with an empty stage)
• Thai Room
• Glorietta

For lunch, we decided to eat at the garden's cafe - Fondazione William e Walton e La Mortella. When we found an available table, we sat down and ordered the following items:

• Boris: English Breakfast tea, Caprese Salad
• Inna: Assam Tea, Prosciutto e Melon
• Dessert: Torta Caprese di Limone

The Caprese Salad was excellent, with delicious tomatoes and Buffalo Mozzarella. The Prosciutto and Melon were terrific, too. The lemon torte was delicious. We really enjoyed our lunch, though the service was a bit slow.

After lunch, we exited the gardens and took a taxi back to our resort. We changed into swimsuits and returned to the main thermal baths to enjoy the rest of the day.

We decided to swim 40 laps in the seawater pool to reduce our calories. After we finished, we returned to the upper deck and rested. I read the news on my iPhone and tried to read  Every Man Dies Alone by Hans Fallada on my Kindle, eventually falling asleep.

Inna explored all the major thermal pools, and we marveled at the various pools.

At around 18:00, we returned to the spa to use all its facilities before it closed at 19:00. We really liked the two saunas. One of the saunas was not hot, so we walked out after a minute. In the second sauna, I stayed for 7 minutes, while Inna remained for 15 minutes (a sand clock was used to measure time inside).

At around 18:30, we returned to our room to watch a gorgeous sunset.

I had many reservations for dinner at 20:00, and we planned to head there when the restaurant opened. Many Italian restaurants open quite late.

Before dinner, we stopped by at the bar for a drink. A live musician was playing Hotel California on the piano. Inna ordered a Cosmopolitan cocktail, which she really enjoyed. I did not contain any alcoholic drinks for myself. The waiting staff also brought some pistachios and olives to munch on.

• Inna: Cosmopolitan

We stopped by our restaurant at 20:10 and were seated at our reserved table. After looking at the menu, we ordered the following items:

• Appetizer: Crudo e Mozzarella (Ham and Mozzarella)
• Boris: Candela alla Genovese
• Inna: Calice Vino (from Ischia), Filetto Fassona Piemontese (Beef) 
• Dessert: Beignets

I liked the excellent Candela alla Genovese pasta and Inna's Filetto Fassona Piemontese (Beef). The chocolate beignets were delicious, too! Inna tried the local Ischia wine but was ambivalent about it.

Sunday, October 1, 2023

As we were tired from the day before, we woke at 7:30 and walked to the restaurant for breakfast at 8:30. Inna specifically asked for a table with beautiful coast views and sat down. We decided to skip today's workout as we planned to swim at the beach.

Inna and I ordered two Americano coffees (as we preferred these to cappuccinos). 

I asked the gentlemen at the deli counter to slice up some delicious Italian deli meats, and he filled my plate. They were so delicious! I also added buffalo mozzarella (which tasted amazing).

After eating all the meats, I stopped by for a second round, choosing small samples of desserts to try. The bees were buzzing around Inna's plate, which annoyed us slightly.

At around 10:00, we picked up towels from the Hotel and ordered a shuttle to drive us to the nearby Spiaggia di San Montano beach. Since we were staying at the Hotel, our entrance was free (usually, the beach charges 30.00 euros for beach and chairs per day)

The Mediterranean Sea was crystal clear and relatively shallow, so Inna and I swam far to the ocean buoy that marks the swimming area's end. There were a dozen boats anchored with many people relaxing and swimming.

We enjoyed swimming back and forth and resting on the beach. The sand is not quite as soft as in Hawaiian Island (Kaui, Maui, Oahu), but it was alright.

At around 13:00, we returned to the Hotel and asked the lifeguard to call our Hotel's shuttle (to pick us up from the beach).

Once in the Hotel, we decided to eat lunch in the restaurant. We sat down and ordered the following items:

• Inna: Caesar Salad with chicken
• Boris: Lemontano (Foccacia bread pizza with Mortadella)

After lunch, we swam 40 laps (1000 yards) in the ocean-water-filled pool. After the swim, we hung out in thermal-heated pools. 

At 16:30, Inna left for her Spa treatment (Lemon massage). She really liked it!

I spent the time by the pools, reading my book and relaxing. When Inna returned, we revisited all of the thermally-heated pools. At around 18:00, we returned to the spa and visited one of the saunas for 10 minutes. After sweating for 10 minutes, we took showers and returned to our room to watch our last sunset in Ischia.

At 19:30, we decided to visit the Hotel's Bar for a few drinks. We ordered the following beverages:

• Inna: Cosmopolitan (Inna's favorite!)
• Boris: Slowly (Coffee, Baileys)

While sipping our drinks, we listened to a piano player sitting beside us. 

The piano player played standard tunes (Frank Sinatra's My Way) while watching football, reading the news on his phone, and finding time to smoke. 

We were impressed that he could do so many things - simultaneously (without affecting his piano playing).

At 20:08, we walked over to the restaurant and were seated at a lovely table. After looking at the menu, we ordered the following items:

• Appetizer: Eggplant & Mozzarella
• Boris: Candela alla Genovese
• Inna: Risotto
• Dessert:  Pear & Ricotta
• Drinks: Hot Black Tea

The dinner was excellent, as usual! I really liked my Candela all Genovese pasta. Inna's Risotto was perfect, too!

Monday, October 2, 2023

After waking up early, we headed downstairs for an early morning breakfast. 

After breakfast, we spent some time swimming in the thermal pools before changing out of our swimsuits and into our travel clothes. We ordered a taxi (35.00 euros) to take us to the main ferry terminal, where we purchased 2 tickets for Sorrento.

Even though the website indicated that there were no ferries to Sorrento, there was a 10:45 ferry departing to Sorrento with a quick stop at Capri.

The ferry trip from Ischia to Sorrento lasted 90 minutes. We departed from Ischia at 10:45 and docked in Sorrento at 12:10.

Ischia Trip Report

Highlights

• Bathing at San Montana Resort & Spa with outstanding thermal pools
• Enjoying eating breakfast, lunch, and dinner at San Montana Resort & Spa 
• Sweating in the multiple saunas of San Montana Resort & Spa 
• Visiting the luscious Giardini La Mortella (Gardens of La Mortella)
• Watching gorgeous sunsets from our room

Lowlights

• Taxis really try to rip you off whenever they can (some don't use a meter)
• Our room's outdoor jacuzzi was broken (the jets never worked)

Read More