Since our fabulous trip to Puerto Vallarta and Sayulita in April 2008, we have planned to return to Puerto Vallarta. In 2019, we jumped on a deal to stay at the top-rated Four Seasons in Punta Mita (a famous surfing spot). However, due to Covid-19, we rescheduled our stay multiple times. Eventually, we settled on the week of September 5-12, 2021. We want Alex to join us due to his commitment to Northeastern's N.U.in. London program, he would not be able to come along.
Sunday, September 5, 2021
After waking up at 6:30 a.m., I quickly showered, brushed my teeth, and packed the cellphone charger in my backpack. I promptly ate my small bowl of raspberries and yogurt while Inna packed the remaining items in her backpack.
After exploring the idea of parking our car at Anza Parking near San Francisco airport, we decided to order UberX since the Anza Parking cost was $120 for one week (vs $140 for a round-trip using UberX). We thought that Anza would be significantly cheaper, but it was not.
I ordered UberX, and the driver showed up at around 7:10. He helped load the luggage, and we were quickly on our way to San Francisco airport's terminal 2 for Alaska Airlines. Even though we were flying to Mexico, Alaska used the domestic terminal 2 (which seemed odd to me).
Since I had already pre-printed my airline tickets, we proceeded straight to the TSA checkpoint, where our passports, tickets, and luggage were checked. We arrived at the airport at 8:00 a.m. and had plenty of time before our 9:40 a.m. Alaska Flight #1272 to Puerto Vallarta. We decided to stop by for Equator Coffees at the Napa Farms Market at SFO. We ordered two almond croissants, a mocha for me, and a latte for Inna.
For some reason, our orders were screwed up, and the barista made me a soy mocha. It took about 25 minutes for her to make me a proper mocha. Fortunately, Inna's latte was prepared on time. After we finished munching our croissants, we decided to purchase lunches for our long flight. Initially, we considered buying the various salads but eventually settled on freshly made sandwiches.
Before boarding our flight, we needed to go through 3 separate passport checks! Eventually, we boarded the Alaska Airbus A320 (a reasonably new aircraft) and sat in our assigned seats (24A, 24B). The flight took off on time, and we enjoyed a long and uneventful flight. Besides being a bit annoyed at the passenger in front of me (who was playing a movie on his phone without headphones), I was happy to be flying on my first real vacation in a while.
On my Kindle, I started reading The Common Law by Oliver Wendell Holmes. According to Antoni Scalia (one of the most famous Supreme Court Justices), it was the most critical book that 1st-year law students read. I was interested in understanding how Common Law came to be, which was a fascinating reading for me. I completed the first chapter - Early Forms of Liability - which explained how early Romans and Germans codified the human need for vengeance into law, eventually forming the basis of English Common Law.
Before landing in Puerto Vallarta, we managed to devour our Napa Farms Market sandwiches just in time. After we landed, we exited the aircraft's rear outside into 80+ degree heat. Now, this was scorching and humid weather. We were unloaded and rushed through Mexican customs after boarding the bus to take us to the airport.
Eventually, we exited the airport and boarded the very lovely Four Seasons SUV to take us to Four Seasons Punta Mita. The SUV was very lovely, with fresh water bottles and even working WiFi! On our drive to Four Seasons, Inna sent a few messages to Alex in London. He was doing fine, adjusting to his new surroundings.
We arrived at Four Seasons Punta Mita at about 17:00. Our luggage was quickly unloaded, and freshly made hibiscus margaritas were offered. Who could say no? After explaining the resort, we headed to room Tortuga #903. Our bellman brought in our luggage and showed us how to set the thermostat in our room. We spent the next hour unpacking all of our suitcases. I even managed to connect the Nvidia Shield to the Samsung big-screen LCD! (Inna could happily watch Grey's Anatomy on Netflix).
After unpacking, we wore our bathing suits and headed for the beach. We jumped into the ocean after picking up fresh towels and some water bottles. It was so warm! We couldn't believe how nice it felt!
After swimming in the ocean for a bit (the current was influential), we came out to sit under the canopy of a large umbrella. However, the rain clouds opened up with an increasingly heavy torrent of rain - an accurate tropical shower! At first, we hid beneath the umbrella and even went for another short swim. However, we eventually returned to our room, a bit soaked but happy.
After taking a shower and drying off, Inna made reservations for dinner at 21:00 at Dos Catrinas - a traditional Mexican Restaurant.
Meanwhile, I mixed in the Margarita mix provided to me by the Four Seasons and Inna staff, and I enjoyed a very delicious margarita. Inna said that she felt drunk!
When we arrived at the restaurant and sat down, we were surprised that we were at the wrong restaurant! We actually sat down at Aramara - an Asian restaurant; we decided to stay there and ordered the following items:
- Boris: Curry Chicken, Hot Tea, Pellegrino
- Inna: Gyoza, Angry Roll (Sushi), Hot Tea, Pellegrino
- Dessert; Vanilla Souffle
The service was exceptional, and the teacups were exquisite. I liked my Curry Chicken, and Inna wanted her Angry Roll. The Vanilla Souffle was also very delicious.
After dinner, we walked around the property and finally located Dos Catrinas Mexican Restaurant.
Monday, September 6, 2021
Happy New Year! Happy Rosh Hashanah!
During the night, I woke up to the sound of rushing water. It sounded like someone upstairs was taking a very long shower. Inna looked outside and said that it was a torrential downpour! I don't ever recall such a loud storm in my life. Eventually, the storm subsided, and I managed to fall back asleep.
When I woke up, I noticed that the floor of our room was very wet. Even the ceiling looked damp and was dripping water. After dressing, we informed Four Seasons' concierge and walked to Dos Catrinas for breakfast.
At Dos Catrinas, we ordered the following items:
- Boris: Mocha, Omelet with Sourdough Bread, Mentoso Juice, Fuji Water
- Inna: Latte, Avocado Toast, Freshly Squeezed Juice
I really liked my Freshly Squeezed Juice (green) with traces of celery and other fruits and vegetables. Inna's juice was red-colored and not to my palate.
While eating breakfast, a friendly concierge informed us that a new room was being prepared for us. He apologized for the wet room and asked us to check our electronics. Four Seasons could help with anything that was damaged by water. We promised to review and report to him anything we found broken.
After breakfast, we returned to the concierge to get answers to a few other questions we compiled:
- What is the cost of a taxi to Punta Mita downtown?
- Answer: A one-way taxi from Four Seasons to Punta Mita costs USD 10.
- What does our breakfast include?
- Answer: All breakfast menu items except liquor and Fuji water are included.
- Where can I surf at Four Seasons?
- Answer: There are 90-minute surf lessons I can sign up for in advance. There is an activities shack on the beach where one can rent SUPs and surfboards (but this requires a separate credit card and cannot be billed to your room)
- How much is the boat trip to Marietas?
- Answer: USD 699 for 2-4 people. However, due to the unpredictable nature of tides, there are no guarantees that one can land on the Hidden Beach. We decided to skip the trip.
We returned to our Tortuga #903 room and packed our electronics. Luckily, Inna's laptop was only slightly damp and worked fine. A Four Seasons bellman came by to help us move to our new room on Ave #710. This was a huge suite that would typically cost $2,000/night.
After moving into the new suite and unpacking, we decided to walk into town. The road there had no sidewalk, and we reached Punta Mita after about 20 minutes. It was boiling and humid, and we were both sweating profusely.
When we reached Punta Mita, it looked like a typical Mexican small town with shops and restaurants and potholes on the road. We walked to the waterfront, as I was hoping to find a shop to rent surfboards, but Mictlan Surf - the one shop highly recommended - was closed.
We ended up eating a light lunch of guacamole with a couple of Cadillac Margaritas at Restaurant La Cabana. They were delicious and very cheap (USD 6). Inna browsed in a few boutiques and shops but found nothing she wanted.
We walked back to the Four Seasons, as we could not find the taxi stand (which was near the MINA/Si Senor Restaurant).
We decided to enjoy the warm Pacific Ocean and walked around the two main beaches at Four Seasons Punta Mita:
- Playa Cuevas (Northern), near the main pool
- Playa Manzanillas (Southern)
Initially, we mostly swam on Playa Cuevas. Still, today, we decided to explore Playa Manzanillas, walking all the way until we reached La Cola De La Ballena (a small, rocky island used as a golf green). (During low tide, a small tractor brought dirt to this tiny island to complete the extra golf hole.)
On the walk along Playa Manzanillas, we found a Surf Shack that rents surfboards and SUPs and provides surfing lessons.
One day, when the waves would be more significant, I could rent a surfboard or SUP to try out. After walking the beach, we returned to Playa Cuevas for a few more swims in the warm Pacific.
In the evening, Inna made reservations at MINA in downtown Ponte Mita. After the 10-minute taxi drive, we were dropped off right before MINA. After a few minutes, we were offered an outdoor table and sat down for dinner.
We had a delightful dinner and ordered the following items:
- Appetizer: Peruvian Ceviche, Pellegrino
- Boris: Frozen Margarita (Don Julio), Mole Poblano
- Inna: Frozen Margarita (Don Julio), Chile Carne
- Dessert: Pistachio Flan
Tuesday, September 7, 2021
We woke at around 9:00 and walked to our usual breakfast at Dos Catrinas in the morning. We ordered the following breakfast items:
- Boris: Mocha, Eggs Benedict, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
- Inna: Latte, Avocado Toast, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
I really enjoyed my Eggs Benedict, but it was too heavy. I usually eat a light breakfast of Greek yogurt and berries that suits me better. Next time, I will be ordering a lighter breakfast.
After breakfast, we returned to our room and changed into swimsuits. We spent the rest of the day floating around and reading books at the main pool. I continued reading Andy Weir's new science-fiction book - Project Hail Mary.
Inna and I also explored a part of the Four Seasons that we had not visited before - the Tamai Pool (near Lazy River). Inna really enjoyed resting in one of the many hammocks.
When Inna got a bit peckish, she ordered pool-size service, and we happily munched on guacamole and a couple tacos. Four Seasons staff regularly arrived to drop off snacks, including free ice cream and popcorn!
We also enjoyed exploring the Playa Manzaniallas, where we went for a short swim. Nobody was there, and we felt we were on a deserted island.
When we returned to our pool, we noticed Four Seasons was setting up for a private wedding. It was a beautiful location for a wedding.
We stayed at the pool until 19:30 and returned to our room right before the gorgeous red sunset. At 20:25, we ordered a taxi to downtown Punta Mita for our dinner at Lobster Paradise.
After being dropped off, we sat outside until a light drizzle interrupted our dinner, and we moved upstairs under the cover of a thatched roof, right next to the Pacific Ocean.
After looking at the extensive menu, we first ordered drinks. I tried the Marea Roja - a Mezcal drink. Inna ordered a margarita with Patron tequila.
- Appetizer: Tartar De Atun Fresco
- Boris: Marea Roja (Mezcal), Filete de Robalo (Pistachio crusted Seabass)
- Inna: Margarita, Chile Relleno with Stuffed Lobster
We enjoyed our small tuna tartar appetizer and then our main courses.
I liked my pistachio-crusted sea bass (freshly caught). It was light and delicious. Inna's Chile Relleno with stuffed lobster was also delicious but much heavier.
I liked Lobster Paradise, but MINA had better quality margaritas and main entrees.
Wednesday, September 8, 2021
We woke at around 9:00 and walked to our usual breakfast at Dos Catrinas in the morning. We ordered the following breakfast items:
- Boris: Coffee, Greek Yogurt with Berries, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
- Inna: Latte, Burrito Machaca, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
I liked my Greek Yogurt with mixed berries (raspberries and strawberries) and granola.
I didn't like the regular coffee (it tasted very bitter), so I asked the hostess for a different blend, and she returned with a cup of Mexican coffee, which tasted much better.
After breakfast, we returned to the pool area and stayed there most of the day. The day started with overcast weather, but it turned into a slight drizzle (not forecasted).
We spent the day lounging by the main pool. I continued reading the Project Hail Mary ebook on my Kindle Paperwhite while Inna browsed the internet on her iPhone.
While lounging, Inna ordered poolside food service, including Ceviche, Chips, and a Pina Colada. The ceviche was very delicious, and she shared a portion with me.
Later in the day, we swam in the main pool and the warm Pacific Ocean. While swimming, we noticed a few snorkelers who said they saw plenty of fish. We returned to shore and visited the Sports Shack, where Inna and I were outfitted with masks, fins, and life vests.
We went for a snorkel and saw a few blue-colored fish near the rocks.
Since it was raining, we did not feel like taking a taxi downtown and decided to eat dinner at the Mexican Dos Catrinas restaurant. There was supposed to be live music at 20:00, and we hoped to enjoy authentic Mexican music.
When we arrived at 20:00, the live Mexican band was already playing upstairs, and we sat down for dinner on the first floor. After looking at the menu, we ordered the following items:
- Appetizer: Queso Fundido (Tortilla, Aged Panela Cheese, Mushrooms)
- Boris: Duck Confit Mole Rosa (Duck Config, Radish, Oregano Vinaigrette)
- Inna: Shrimp Quesadilla
- Dessert: Guava Gelee Stone (Chocolate Crisp)
Thursday, September 9, 2021
We woke at around 10:00 in the morning and walked to our usual breakfast at Dos Catrinas. We ordered the following breakfast items:
- Boris: Tea, Greek Yogurt with Berries, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
- Inna: Latte, Burrito Machaca, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
I liked my Greek Yogurt with mixed raspberries, strawberries, and granola.
The tea was served in a French Press and was delicious, too.
We spent most of the day by the main pool, lounging around and swimming, with occasional dips in the Pacific Ocean.
Inna and I walked the entire length of Cuevas Beach, taking multiple photos.
After walking along Cuevas Beach, we returned to the Main Pool, noticing the elaborate decorations being prepared for some event (a wedding or company party).
Both Inna and I continued to enjoy swimming in the main pool, especially after 17:00, when everyone else had left, and we were the only souls left.
During this time, we encountered a friendly neighborhood, Iguana. It was not afraid of us (and was used to being fed strawberries by Four Seasons' guests).
Inna was initially apprehensive about getting close to the Iguana, but she quickly got used to it and managed to approach it quite closely to take exceptional photos.
For dinner, Inna made reservations at the famous (Michelin chef) Tuna Blanca for 20:30. When we arrived, we were seated near the ocean with the sound of a live white piano in the background.
The pianist played a medley of tunes from Billy Joel, Elton John, Frank Sinatra, and Simon & Garfunkel. Multiple couples were celebrating anniversaries and birthdays.
The waiter brought out a surfboard decorated with desserts and fireworks for each event. They would sing songs in Spanish and then in English. It was enjoyable to watch!
His playing was error-free, but his interpretation lacked a bit of passion (sounding like a computer playing notes).
- Appetizer: Pellegrino
- Boris: Pinki Dinki (sweet drink), Organic Tomatoes Festival & Mozzarella Mousse, Short Rib Birria Style
- Inna: 5-Course Chef's Tasting Menu:
- Blue Bay Tuna Tostada
- Cream of Prawn & Pumpkin Soup
- Mahi-Mahi Zarandeado Style
- Short Rib Birria Style
- Milk Caramel Fondant
It was a lovely setting with exquisite waiter service.
The Organic Tomatoes Festival was delicious, as was my Short Rib. Inna really enjoyed her tasting menu (though it was a bit expensive, i.e., 1399 pesos = USD 70).
We enjoyed our dinner at Tuna Blanca, but it was much more expensive than MINA.
Friday, September 10, 2021
We woke at around 8:40 in the morning and walked to our usual breakfast at Dos Catrinas. Before sitting down for breakfast, Inna found a lounge by the main pool and set it up (so that we would have an excellent location).
We ordered the following breakfast items:
- Boris: Coffee, Greek Yogurt with Berries, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
- Inna: Latte, Burrito Machaca, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
- Inna: Tacos
- Boris: Guacamole & Chips
In the evening, Inna made reservations at MINA in downtown Punta Mita.
After the 10-minute taxi drive, we were dropped off right before MINA. After a few minutes, we were offered an outdoor table and sat down for dinner.
We had a delightful dinner and ordered the following items:
- Appetizer: Peruvian Ceviche, Pellegrino
- Boris: Frozen Margarita with Don Julio Tequila, Mole Poblano
- Inna: Passion Fruit Margarita with Don Julio Tequila, Enchilada
- Dessert: Pistachio Flan
In the morning, we woke around 8:40 and waited for our 9:00 COVID-19 test (required for all flights to the U.S.). Fortunately, both Inna and I tested negative for Covid-19.
After the test, we walked to our usual breakfast at Dos Catrinas. Before sitting down for breakfast, Inna found a lounge by the main pool and set it up (so that we would have an excellent location).
We ordered the following breakfast items:
- Boris: Coffee, Greek Yogurt with Berries, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
- Inna: Latte, Quesadilla, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
- Appetizer: Apple & Tejuino Salad
- Boris: Mahi-Mahi with Mexican rice and sea-urchin sauce, Iguana (non-alcoholic drink)
- Inna: Charbroiled Lobster Tail with Mole, Anemone (non-alcoholic drink)
- Dessert: Cornbread with ice cream
We woke up at 8:00 and packed our suitcases and backpacks in the morning. At around 9:00, we were filled and ready to enjoy another half-day at Punta Mita.
We walked to the main pool and set up our lounges. Then, we were off to Dos Catrinas for our morning breakfast. We ordered the following breakfast items:
- Boris: Coffee, Greek Yogurt with Berries, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
- Inna: Latte, Quesadilla, Mentoso Juice (Granny Smith, lemon, mint, celery)
- Boris: Ciel Sparkling Water, Mocha, Chicken Quesadilla
- Inna: Margarita (Julio Reposado), Latte, Chocolate Croissant
Four Seasons Punta Mita Report Card
Positives
- Exceptional customer service throughout the stay
- Beautiful sand beach and the warm Pacific Ocean
- Exquisite furniture in each Four Seasons room
- Free goodies (dessert, snacks, margarita) are provided in the room
- Free poolside snacks including ice cream, popcorn, flavored ice
- Fantastic Mexican Restaurants, including MINA, Dos Catrinas (Four Seasons), Carolina (St. Regis)
- Surfing and SUP-surfing at Playa Manzanillas
Negatives
- Tortuga Room #903 experienced a leaky ceiling and floors on our first night
- Ants in #710 room (needed multiple requests to clear up)
- Frequently rainy/drizzly weather during the rainy season (April - October)
- No sidewalks to walk to Punta Mita downtown. Using a taxi is mandatory
- Having to take a Covid-19 test to return to the U.S.
- The Surf Shack requires credit cards (which cannot be billed to my room)
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