Tennis Forehand Drive
1. Grip
a. Use
Eastern Forehand (3) or Semi-Western (4), with index knuckle on bevel (3) or
(4)
b. Be sure
that the wrist is loose. Only the ring and pinkie fingers are holding the
racket (to allow for a smooth racket rotation)
c. The
pinkie finger should be wrapped around the tapered bottom of the racket
d. The index finger should be spread out "Captain Hook" style for more control
2. Preparation
(before incoming ball bounces)
a. When the
opponent hits the ball, do a split step toward the ball.
b. If you
decide that this is a forehand topspin drive, immediately execute the following
preparation steps
c. Select
either Closed Stance or Open Stance to receive the ball
d. In Closed
Stance, load up the back leg (30% front, 70% back), front foot pointing at 45
degrees, backfoot at 90 degrees (Legs are perpendicular to the direction you want
to hit). Legs should be 3-4 inches wider than shoulder-width.
e. In Open
Stance, load up the right leg (70% right, 30% left), right foot pointing 90
degrees.
f. If you
want to hit the ball straight ahead, aim for 6 o'clock on the ball. To aim
left, aim for 5 o'clock on the ball. To aim right, aim for 7 o'clock. These
adjustments are best made by setting up the slightly pointed left or right stance.
g. Use the
left arm to move the right arm into the "L" position, the right arm is
horizontal with the racket at 3 o'clock (ball is coming from 12 o'clock). Once in
position, the left arm tracks the ball. The left arm can be further extended
(to load up) for additional power.
h. For added
power, the left arm could extend further out to enable more shoulder rotation
i. You
should visualize the height and direction of the returned ball
3. Forehand
Drive
a. When the
incoming ball bounces, breathe in and start the forehand stroke
b. Be sure
to accelerate gradually (not
suddenly) and build up maximum racket speed when about to hit the
ball. You may need to initiate strokes earlier than you're used to. Making
the noise of "vrrrooooom" will help you to achieve this new timing.
c. Kick off
with the right leg, rotating the hips counter-clockwise and pushing off the
ground
d. Rotate
the shoulders by using the "yes" motion of the left arm
e. Right arm
drops down, with the racket head lagging and the butt cap facing the ball
f. Twist the
doorknob (counter-clockwise) on the right arm to add more topspin
g. Hit the ball with the right arm fully extended at waist level (ball should be 1-1.5
feet in front of your body) while breathing out
h. Your head
should be as still as possible during the forehand stroke,
with the eyes tracking the ball. Do not move the head to look where the ball is
going!
4. Completion
a. Finish
the stroke with the right arm near the shoulder and elbow pointed at the
opponent
b. Pivot on
the left leg and step forward on your right leg after hitting the ball.
Forward momentum is critical for maximum power
c. The chest
should be facing forward on completion
d. Move your
head to observe the ball
5. Refinements
a. A more
vertical swing adds more topspin (use Semi-western grip)
b. More knee
bend adds more topspin (while straightening the front leg)
c. Using
Semi-Western(4) grip allows for more topspin at the expense of power
Roger Federer's slow-motion
videos show how an ideal forehand drive should look.
I have been watching lots
of YouTube videos to improve my forehand groundstroke. The
book Championship
Tennis by Frank Giampaolo
and Jon Levey has been beneficial, especially in illuminating the
concept of Strike Zones.
I did not realize that the forehand grip needs
to change depending on where the ball is in the strike zone.
The grip influences the angle of the racket (Open or Closed) and your ideal swing.
The index knuckle is the
best indicator of the grip.
1. Use
Continental (2) for below-the-waist shots (Open Face)
2. Use
Eastern (3) for more power or waist-level shots (Closed Face)
3. Use
Semi-Western (4) for a lot of spin or shoulder-high shots (Closed
Face)
Strike Zone
The Strike Zone is the
3-foot racket path window where the string may contact the ball.
1. Waist-level
Strike Zone
a. Use Eastern
(3) or Semi-Western (4) grip
b. The ball
is hit when it reaches the player's waist
c. Use a
compact loop backswing, along with a closed racket that drops about a foot
below the contact point before accelerating to the strike zone
d. At
impact, the racket face should be quiet and vertical
e. Do not
move your head during the ball impact!
2. Below-the-waist-Strike
Zone
a. Use Continental
(2) grip
b. Use
abbreviated loop backswing (or not backswing at all)
c. The lower
the ball, the less backswing is needed
d. If the ball is too low, the player should switch to Continental grip (more open face),
making it easier to get underneath the ball over the net
e. The player should accelerate forearm speed to lift the ball
f. At
impact, the racket face should be quiet and vertical
g. Do not
move your head during the ball impact!
3. High
Strike Zone
a. Use
Semi-Western (4) grip
b. Use
compact loop backswing and vertical racket face at shoulder height
c. Do not
move your head during the ball impact!
Typical Problems
1. Use
Eastern(3) grip, with space between index and middle fingers, for topspin
2. Use
Semi-Western(4) grip for more topspin
3. The hook
will help with the wrist snap
4. The
forehand swing is moving at 45 degrees to the incoming ball
5. Stay away
from Continental(2), as it inhibits topspin
1. Watch the
video for proper wrist snap technique. This adds a lot of power!
1. Rotation
(body rotates)
2. Tabletop
(racket is horizontal as if being placed on a table)
3. Tip lag
(racket lags behind the body, with the cap pointing at the incoming ball)
4. Release
the wrist
1. Keep the
hitting arm reasonably straight throughout the swing
2. Twist the
hitting hand (like a doorknob right, to pre-load) and snap back during the
return
1. Keep the
hitting arm straight (don't bend it)
1. If the ball is falling short, I can initiate the stroke after the ball bounces and
still hit it in front of me
2. If the ball is deep, initiate the stroke blind (you cannot wait to see the ball)
before the bounce. (Otherwise, you will be late!)
1. For fastballs, initiate the stroke blind (before the ball bounces)
2. Don't panic - be smooth in your stroke (and don't speed up the stroke)
3. Don't rush your racket speed (a fast racket against a fastball does not work)
1. Move back
to hit the ball at your preferred height
2. Move in
and take the ball early (on the rise)
3. Drive
volley (no ball bounce)
4. Hit the
ball at its peak (off the bounce)
§ The
backspin (racket preparation) needs to be higher than the ball (you may need to
jump while moving forward)
1. Use the
Strike Zone
1. During a
return, hold both hands together on the racket, open up immediately
1. The key
is timing. The moment when the racket hits the ball determines whether it will
go straight or cross-court.
1. Closed
(Perpendicular Stance)
§ Advantage:
Heavier/harder hit on the ball
§ Disadvantage:
It takes one extra step (slower to get to the ball)
2. Open
(Parallel Stance)
§ Advantage:
Get to the ball much sooner (fewest steps). Keep forward movement!
§ Disadvantage:
Lighter hit on the ball
1. Problem:
Most Tennis players mess up shots for two reasons:
§ Too much
tightness/tension in their body
§ Not
hitting a clean shot (off-center contact)
2. Solution:
§ Keep the
head steady and watch the racket. Do not look where the ball is heading or look
at your opponent
§ Hit the
ball well in front of you, where you can see it
14. When
should I hit the slice (forehand or backhand)?
1. The general change of pace
2. More
favorable to use on the backhand side (forehand topspin is a more powerful
stroke)
3. Slice
shots tend to stay lower, making the opponent bend
15. Footwork
1. After
hitting the shot, get back (even if you think you hit a winner)
1. Lightest
rackets for beginners
1. Easier
volleying
2. Less
deflection (more control)
2. Heavy
racket for a professional player
0. More
topspin
1. Can hit the ball more off-center
2. More
deflection
Forehand Stroke Types
1. Topspin drive
2. Topspin loop
3. Short
angle or side door
4. Slice
1. Start
2. Loading
("It's all in the hips!")
3. Lock-In
4. Acceleration
5. Contact
6. Extension
7. Finish
1. Larger
Head leads to more topspin (more string flex)
2. Wider
string spacing leads to more topspin
3. Lower
string tension leads to more topspin
4. 15 gauge
string has less spin (but breaks less often)
5. Poly
strings help to get more topspin (more flex) and is more durable