We like it hidden and unique (and not overrun by mobs of tourists). We came to Bologna for one primary reason - it is supposed to be the culinary capital of Italy (but don't tell anyone).
We arrived at Bologna's central train station on time, at 1:15 p.m., from Milano Centrale train station (on the way from Varenna). Bologna's central train station is quite large - one of the largest I have ever seen.
We arrived at Bologna's central train station on time, at 1:15 p.m., from Milano Centrale train station (on the way from Varenna). Bologna's central train station is quite large - one of the largest I have ever seen.
Once we found our way out, we took a taxi to our Airbnb apartment at Via Piella in downtown Bologna. We were met by our host, Sandra, who showed us the apartment, locations, and operation of all appliances, as well as nearby restaurants and sights. Sandra was accommodating, and we were happy with our choice of Airbnb apartment in Bologna.
The apartment is right on Bologna's canals and not far from the principal attractions (i.e., Piazza Maggiore, Fountain of Neptune, etc.) Sandra suggested that we make reservations for lunch at Trattoria Serghei nearby (most restaurants are pretty small, and reservations are highly recommended). She called to make reservations, and we promptly went to get lunch there.
Trattoria Serghei is a small, quaint restaurant, nicely decorated on the inside. We were the only tourists there and enjoyed eating typical lunch entrees with other Italians. We all ordered the famous "Tagliatelle Al Ragu," as recommended by our waiter.
We enjoyed the food quality, the friendly atmosphere, and the fast service. The prices were very reasonable, and the food was superb. No wonder people write that Bologna has the best food in Italy!
The desserts were also exceptionally delicious. We liked the cheesecake or "Torta alla ricotta" in Italian.
We also liked the mascarpone torte with chocolate. The desserts were spectacular!
The apartment is right on Bologna's canals and not far from the principal attractions (i.e., Piazza Maggiore, Fountain of Neptune, etc.) Sandra suggested that we make reservations for lunch at Trattoria Serghei nearby (most restaurants are pretty small, and reservations are highly recommended). She called to make reservations, and we promptly went to get lunch there.
Trattoria Serghei is a small, quaint restaurant, nicely decorated on the inside. We were the only tourists there and enjoyed eating typical lunch entrees with other Italians. We all ordered the famous "Tagliatelle Al Ragu," as recommended by our waiter.
We enjoyed the food quality, the friendly atmosphere, and the fast service. The prices were very reasonable, and the food was superb. No wonder people write that Bologna has the best food in Italy!
The desserts were also exceptionally delicious. We liked the cheesecake or "Torta alla ricotta" in Italian.
We also liked the mascarpone torte with chocolate. The desserts were spectacular!
After lunch, we returned to our apartment for a moment and then decided to explore Bologna further, planning to visit the main highlight. Rick Steves' book did not mention Bologna; he suggested skipping Bologna altogether and going to Ravenna instead. We decided not to follow his advice. Rick's advice is usually sensible, but he is frequently wrong regarding restaurant choices (and city choices).
We were pleasantly surprised by the old buildings in Bologna, with thousands of porticoes in red brick (something we have never seen anywhere else). Eventually, strolling through many courtyards, we made it to the main square - Piazza Maggiore.
We were pleasantly surprised by the old buildings in Bologna, with thousands of porticoes in red brick (something we have never seen anywhere else). Eventually, strolling through many courtyards, we made it to the main square - Piazza Maggiore.
There, we saw the main cathedral, half unfinished from the outside. It is beautiful on the inside - all in fine red brick.
Piazza Maggiore was packed with people (like most Italian piazzas).
Once outside the cathedral, we explored the statue of Neptune, which is quite lovely. After exploring the nearby courtyard, we further walked around the old town.
We spotted a quality gelateria and stopped by to sample some gelato. We had never seen or tasted some flavors, like buffalo milk (I really liked it). We really enjoyed the nocciola (hazelnut) and pistachio gelato.
We spotted a quality gelateria and stopped by to sample some gelato. We had never seen or tasted some flavors, like buffalo milk (I really liked it). We really enjoyed the nocciola (hazelnut) and pistachio gelato.
They were some of the best gelatos we have ever eaten anywhere in the world. Their chocolate gelato was also delicious. There was one flavor - trifle/bubble gum - that Alex really liked, but I did not care for.
After walking a bit further, we ran into Inna's other favorite, Gelateria - Grom. However, their prices were higher, and they did not offer any new exotic flavors, so we did not stop by (though we were mightily tempted).
We also visited (by accident) the Archiginnasio - the world's oldest university and the Teatro Anatomico, where students learned anatomy by observing surgery on cadavers (done by lecturers).
We also visited (by accident) the Archiginnasio - the world's oldest university and the Teatro Anatomico, where students learned anatomy by observing surgery on cadavers (done by lecturers).
The Teatro is a well-maintained all-wooden room with benches and an operating table in the center. There are statues of the world's best doctors all around.
As we were getting a bit tired, we decided to head home to get some needed rest. We decided to head home but stopped at the Church of Santa Maria della Vita.
The famous statues of Niccola dell'Arca (an early Renaissance sculptor) of “Compianto sul Cristo morto” were displayed. The lifelike expressions of grief were quite impressive. It is remarkable for a sculptor to have done this in the 15th century.
We sampled a few Bolognese delicacies while exploring Bologna's downtown.
Alex liked the "Cannoli con Nutella." (Actually, Alex likes Nutella on anything)/
We ran into a few towers downtown. Bologna used to have 160+ towers, but now only a few are still standing. Some of the towers are no longer straight and are leaning.
We thought about climbing the towers but were too tired.
We strolled on the Via Dell'Independenza - one of the main shopping streets. There were many upscale shops and boutiques. It's incredible how many porticos are there in Bologna!
For dinner, Inna made special reservations at the well-regarded Osteria La Traviata. We made it there around 8:15 p.m. It is a fine Italian family restaurant, and we enjoyed our Italian dinner there.
As we were getting a bit tired, we decided to head home to get some needed rest. We decided to head home but stopped at the Church of Santa Maria della Vita.
The famous statues of Niccola dell'Arca (an early Renaissance sculptor) of “Compianto sul Cristo morto” were displayed. The lifelike expressions of grief were quite impressive. It is remarkable for a sculptor to have done this in the 15th century.
We sampled a few Bolognese delicacies while exploring Bologna's downtown.
Alex liked the "Cannoli con Nutella." (Actually, Alex likes Nutella on anything)/
We ran into a few towers downtown. Bologna used to have 160+ towers, but now only a few are still standing. Some of the towers are no longer straight and are leaning.
We thought about climbing the towers but were too tired.
We strolled on the Via Dell'Independenza - one of the main shopping streets. There were many upscale shops and boutiques. It's incredible how many porticos are there in Bologna!
For dinner, Inna made special reservations at the well-regarded Osteria La Traviata. We made it there around 8:15 p.m. It is a fine Italian family restaurant, and we enjoyed our Italian dinner there.
Inna enjoyed the appetizer's cold cuts (freshly sliced meats of different kinds). After all, that's where the word for Bologna comes from. Cold cuts were delicious!
My Spaghetti Bolognese was delicious (as usual). Overall, Bologna had some of Italy's best food (and very reasonably priced).
For dessert, we had the recommended house dessert. It was delicious!
We came back home very late. The sun had set long ago and was a bit dark (even with street lamps).
Wednesday, April 8, 2015
In the morning, after waking up, we dressed and decided to get a standard Bolognese breakfast. We walked around and found a local cafe - Naama Cafe - with delicious pastries.
It was a tiny cafe with only a few tables. We saw that only locals eat here - we were the only tourists. It's our kind of coffee shop - cozy and cute!
We ordered many different coffees and a hot chocolate for Alex. They were excellent!
Wednesday, April 8, 2015
In the morning, after waking up, we dressed and decided to get a standard Bolognese breakfast. We walked around and found a local cafe - Naama Cafe - with delicious pastries.
It was a tiny cafe with only a few tables. We saw that only locals eat here - we were the only tourists. It's our kind of coffee shop - cozy and cute!
We ordered many different coffees and a hot chocolate for Alex. They were excellent!
I finally found my favorite croissant with pistachio filling again (the last time I ate one was in Metz, France, many years ago). The croissant was delicious, and Inna's lemon cake was also outstanding. I wish I could buy these croissants in the U.S.
Our cappuccinos were also covered with pistachio and were delicious! How I will miss Bolognese cooking!
I still can't understand why many Italians choose to stand when drinking coffee or eating a pastry (and the price in Italy is different for those sitting versus standing). It looks odd.
After returning to our apartment, we packed and asked Sandra to call us a taxi. We arrived at the Bologna train station in 10 minutes. We found the train to Venice, scheduled for 10:55 a.m., but could not find a working ticket machine.
After returning to our apartment, we packed and asked Sandra to call us a taxi. We arrived at the Bologna train station in 10 minutes. We found the train to Venice, scheduled for 10:55 a.m., but could not find a working ticket machine.
As time ran out, we decided to purchase tickets on the train. This was a terrible mistake - as prices on the train are 3 times higher. Live and learn! I did not realize I could buy Trenitalia tickets using my iPhone (though the ProntoTreno app is unavailable in the U.S. Apple Store). Next time, if a working ticket machine cannot be found, I will buy tickets online (to avoid paying penalties on the train).
The train to Venice was high-speed, and we arrived in Venice by 1:10 p.m.
The train to Venice was high-speed, and we arrived in Venice by 1:10 p.m.
0 comments:
Post a Comment