After getting up in the morning and getting breakfast, we took the metro to Copenhagen airport. It started lightly raining in Copenhagen, but not enough to get us wet. We boarded at Kongens Nytorv metro station and took the M2 subway to the Copenhagen airport (Lufthavn station). On the way there, in the metro, we had our 24-hour Copenhagen tickets checked. During our five days in Copenhagen, this was the first time someone checked our train tickets. I should have stamped the tickets somehow (no one told me to do this), so the agent took our tickets (but they were no longer needed anyway).
Inna ordered a Grilled Whitefish in Hollandaise sauce. It was prepared with the skin still on the fish, but it was tender, and Inna liked it.
I chose a Caesar Salad with Salmon but instead received a Caesar Salad with Chicken. The salad was fine and prepared differently from the many other Caesar Salads I have tasted.
The meal was about 70 euros (about USD 100) - rather expensive, but that's an average European price for eating out in a decent restaurant.
The views from the top of the Ferris wheel were breathtaking, though the darkened glass made it bad for photography (due to all the reflections).
It certainly looks like no other church I have ever seen.
When we arrived around 10:30am, it was run over by tourists. Inside the church, a musician was playing Chopin on the grand piano.
It was lovely to sit and listen to the music (despite all the noise the tourists created).
After listening to music for ten minutes, we walked out and climbed on top. Many tourists were speaking loudly and had to be repeatedly told to be quiet.
Some cute shops were around the corner, and we sneaked in an adorable photo of Inna.
We saw the ancient exhibit and the early Finnish period when Finland was first ruled by Sweden and then by Russia.
There were informative exhibits on metalworking techniques in ancient times, with displays showcasing some of the uncovered artifacts.
A square grand piano showcases the life of the nobility.
The waterfront looked busy, with the Fisherman's market in full swing. It was not as elaborate as the one in Bergen, Norway.
We walked past the Fisherman's market to look at all the other interesting buildings. We saw the Finnair Ferris Wheel, which we rode on the day before, and some other buildings we did not recognize.
The Linden is a 3-masted schooner docked by the waterfront.
Finnish is a complex language to pronounce and remember. I could remember the words "Thank you" or "Kitos," but other expressions were more challenging to recall.
We woke around 8:30 a.m. and had our mediocre breakfast at our Original Sokos Hotel in Helsinki. Afterward, we decided to visit the Russian Uspenski Cathedral. Near our hotel was tram line #4 to the cathedral. It was a much more modest cathedral than the ones I've seen elsewhere, but still very tastefully designed and decorated.
Inside, the cathedral is beautifully furnished in lavish, Baroque style.
After a few photos, we took the tram to Stockmann's Department store, where we had our favorite Movenpick ice cream. Inna had the Swiss chocolate and hazelnut (she did not like the hazelnut), while I ordered the black currant and rum & raisin.
After the quick bite, we picked up a few souvenirs. Since time was short, we decided to have our last snack, or as I like to call it - prelunch - at Cafe Kappeli.
As usual, there was entertainment going on in front of the cafe. This time, there was a traditional Finnish men's Capella group singing. We went inside the cafe and ordered a couple of pastries. I had the Danish with strawberry and cream, which was delicious (better than in Copenhagen).
Next, we returned to our Original Sokos hotel, checked out, and took tram #9 to the ferry terminal. It took a few stops, and the tram was jam-packed with people. We arrived at the West Terminal around 12:45pm and immediately boarded the Tallink Silja Line.
Everything went very smoothly, and we sailed right on time.
Since our Tallink Silja Line ferry departs from Helsinki to Tallinn at 1:30 p.m., for a 3:30 p.m. arrival into Tallinn, Estonia, we had to get to the ferry terminal by 1:00pm for check-in (so we made it just in time). The enormous ferry holds large trucks, cars, motorcycles, and people. It also has multiple restaurants, pubs, and a kid's play area - just like a smaller cruise ship.
Alex ordered a Margherita pizza, which he enjoyed eating.
We enjoyed the ferry ride and looked forward to exploring Tallinn, Estonia.
Next stop, Tallinn.
The Copenhagen Airport is the best airport I have ever visited, rivaling Schiphol in Amsterdam. Everything is well organized, tickets are easy to print, the security check goes very fast, and the time for security check is displayed on the screen. Everything is well-automated and fast! It makes some US airports feel like they are from the third world.
We flew to Helsinki aboard SAS Flight SK1714 (on a small jet plane), arriving in Helsinki, Finland, around 2:45pm. Helsinki is in a different time zone, so we had to advance our watches by one hour. Since Helsinki is the euro currency, I got some euros at the airport's ATM machine.
We took a prepaid taxi to our Original Sokos Hotel Helsinki downtown, using a pre-paid airport taxi for 39.50 euros. The taxi dropped us off nearby but told us to go the wrong way to the actual hotel. With the help of Google Maps, we eventually found our way to the hotel. I hope that the taxi driver was just clueless and not malicious. He did not say a single word on the way there. I read somewhere that Finns value silence - perhaps this was it.
Helsinki is a big city with fewer bicycles and bike lanes than in Denmark. Outside Helsinki, the vegetation is very Russian-like, but the automobile roads look like the U.S. If you do not see the odd-looking houses and cars, you might think you are in the U.S.
The weather was cold, 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and slightly windy. Everyone on the street was wearing coats or jackets. Although the temperature in Copenhagen was very similar, the people of Helsinki were dressed to expect colder weather.
When we checked into our hotel, we discovered it had a sauna on the 9th floor. As men and women go to the sauna at different times, she goes to check it out. She said the sauna was much hotter than the one in our Courtside Club, but otherwise, it was very similar. Unfortunately, I never got the time to test it myself.
The hotel and Rick Steves recommended Cafe Kappeli for lunch/dinner, and we planned to go there later in the day. After walking for a few blocks, we decided to stop by the Cafe Kappeli for dinner.
Cafe Kappeli is located in the middle of the park on Kappeliesplanade (Finnish words are generally very long and difficult to pronounce). It's in a beautiful modern building with lots of glass to let in light. There are two options in Cafe Kappeli - cafe or restaurant. The cafe is self-serve, with lower prices; one selects a table, sits down, and orders cafeteria-style food. In the dining area, dinner is served by waiters and waitresses, so prices are higher.
We sat down in the dining area and ordered our selections. Alex ordered Fried Chicken and French fries. His fries came with an unusual-tasting sauce (see the photo below).
Cafe Kappeli is located in the middle of the park on Kappeliesplanade (Finnish words are generally very long and difficult to pronounce). It's in a beautiful modern building with lots of glass to let in light. There are two options in Cafe Kappeli - cafe or restaurant. The cafe is self-serve, with lower prices; one selects a table, sits down, and orders cafeteria-style food. In the dining area, dinner is served by waiters and waitresses, so prices are higher.
We sat down in the dining area and ordered our selections. Alex ordered Fried Chicken and French fries. His fries came with an unusual-tasting sauce (see the photo below).
Inna ordered a Grilled Whitefish in Hollandaise sauce. It was prepared with the skin still on the fish, but it was tender, and Inna liked it.
I chose a Caesar Salad with Salmon but instead received a Caesar Salad with Chicken. The salad was fine and prepared differently from the many other Caesar Salads I have tasted.
The meal was about 70 euros (about USD 100) - rather expensive, but that's an average European price for eating out in a decent restaurant.
After we finished dinner, we walked out and were surprised by the mob of people just outside the restaurant. There is a stage in front of the restaurant where singers and dancers perform, and two women were dancing traditional Finnish dances.
The sound isolation inside Cafe Kappeli was so good that we were unaware anything was happening outside.
The sound isolation inside Cafe Kappeli was so good that we were unaware anything was happening outside.
We promised to purchase some ice cream for Alex. We found a local gelateria - Ciao! Cafe and Wine Bar - and strolled in. Alex tried a couple of flavors - licorice and coconut but did not like them; I decided to try green apple and coconut and really liked them. They tasted freshly made and a bit sour (just the combination I prefer).
Alex wanted Ben & Jerry's ice cream, so we walked a few blocks to the nearest Ben & Jerry's parlor and ordered two scoops for Alex and two more scoops for Inna. (Two scoops in Ben & Jerry's cost 5 euros - relatively expensive for ice cream)
We sat in the park, eating the ice cream and looking at the people. Finns seem extremely pale - they have had very little sun exposure. Everyone was wearing coats and sometimes scarves.
We walked to the waterfront and decided to ride on the giant Ferris wheel (the Finnair Sky Wheel). I purchased tickets, and we rode around 4 times, looking at the beautiful waterfront. At first, I tried taking photos through the glass of the Ferris wheel carts, but they were not coming out. I opened the window at the top, slid my camera in, and then turned it on to get a better photo of the surrounding area (without the glare of glass).
The views from the top of the Ferris wheel were breathtaking, though the darkened glass made it bad for photography (due to all the reflections).
As Inna and Alex were exhausted, we returned to our Original Sokos Hotel to get some sleep and rest.
Thursday, July 3, 2014
We got up relatively late, around 8:30am, and went to get breakfast downstairs at our Sokos Hotel Helsinki. The restaurant where the breakfast was served was bustling, and no tables were left. We waited a bit to get a table and then tried some of the foods offered in the buffet. I tried the yogurt, and it was fine. The slices of bread were delicious, but other standard items, like scrambled eggs, were not as well prepared. Overall, this breakfast was acceptable. I recommend skipping the breakfast in Sokos Hotel Helsinki (and eating elsewhere).
After breakfast, we took a tram to the Temppeliaukion Church, also known as the Rock Church. The church's interior was excavated and built directly out of solid rock. The church is bathed in natural sunlight, which enters through the skylight surrounding the center copper dome.
It certainly looks like no other church I have ever seen.
When we arrived around 10:30am, it was run over by tourists. Inside the church, a musician was playing Chopin on the grand piano.
It was lovely to sit and listen to the music (despite all the noise the tourists created).
After listening to music for ten minutes, we walked out and climbed on top. Many tourists were speaking loudly and had to be repeatedly told to be quiet.
Some cute shops were around the corner, and we sneaked in an adorable photo of Inna.
Since we were near the Finnish National Museum, we decided to stop there to learn more about Finnish history and culture.
We saw the ancient exhibit and the early Finnish period when Finland was first ruled by Sweden and then by Russia.
There were informative exhibits on metalworking techniques in ancient times, with displays showcasing some of the uncovered artifacts.
There were also many carved statues on display.
A square grand piano showcases the life of the nobility.
Besides, there was a new, temporary exhibit at the museum - Japanese Bushido. This was an unexpected treat, as Alex likes all Samurai swords and fighting techniques.
The exhibit is "The Spirit of Budō: The History of Japan's Martial Arts."
There were many samurai swords and armor on display. Some specific examples of samurai armor were very elaborate - one helmet looked like a peacock with feathers sticking out in all directions.
Some of the Samurai warrior helmets are very elaborate.
A movie was also playing, showcasing Japan's various martial arts, including Kempo, Judo, Aikido, Sumo, and Karate (and many others). Alex enjoyed looking at the armor and swords, especially watching the movie showcasing these martial arts. I did not realize how many different martial arts originated in Japan.
The exhibit is "The Spirit of Budō: The History of Japan's Martial Arts."
There were many samurai swords and armor on display. Some specific examples of samurai armor were very elaborate - one helmet looked like a peacock with feathers sticking out in all directions.
Some of the Samurai warrior helmets are very elaborate.
A movie was also playing, showcasing Japan's various martial arts, including Kempo, Judo, Aikido, Sumo, and Karate (and many others). Alex enjoyed looking at the armor and swords, especially watching the movie showcasing these martial arts. I did not realize how many different martial arts originated in Japan.
After the exhibit, we ate lunch downtown at Sundman's Krog Bistro (recommended by Rick Steves). On the way there, our tram #4 stopped at the Lutheran Cathedral. We liked the look of the cathedral from the outside.
We initially thought it was a Russian Orthodox Church, but we were wrong. This was a Lutheran church. It was open, so we peeked inside and were surprised to see how simple and plain it was.
There were no decorations like in Baroque cathedrals in Rome or France.
We initially thought it was a Russian Orthodox Church, but we were wrong. This was a Lutheran church. It was open, so we peeked inside and were surprised to see how simple and plain it was.
There were no decorations like in Baroque cathedrals in Rome or France.
We continued our walk to Sundman's Krog Bistro. We were surprised to learn that it was closed when we arrived there. There was a restaurant nearby called Havis, and we decided to eat there. I ordered Fish and Chips, Alex ordered a Caesar Salad, and Inna ordered a Salad with Goat Cheese.
All of the dishes were finely prepared and delicious but expensive. After lunch, we decided to catch the ferry to Suomenlinna Island, where a large fort was built first by Sweden and then by Russia to protect Helsinki from invasion.
All of the dishes were finely prepared and delicious but expensive. After lunch, we decided to catch the ferry to Suomenlinna Island, where a large fort was built first by Sweden and then by Russia to protect Helsinki from invasion.
The waterfront looked busy, with the Fisherman's market in full swing. It was not as elaborate as the one in Bergen, Norway.
We walked past the Fisherman's market to look at all the other interesting buildings. We saw the Finnair Ferris Wheel, which we rode on the day before, and some other buildings we did not recognize.
The Linden is a 3-masted schooner docked by the waterfront.
Eventually, we boarded our ferry with many other tourists and sailed to the Suomenlinna islands.
The boat ride from Helsinki to Suomenlinna took 15 minutes and was covered by our 24-hour pass.
We walked across the islands to see the large cannons that defended Helsinki. The walk took about 25 minutes, but it was extremely windy, and Inna got a headache.
The southern part of Suomenlinna has large stone castle walls and cannons protecting the entrance to Helsinki harbor.
We found many cannons on the Suomenlinna islands, and Alex managed to climb a few.
Some enormous cannons were used to protect the port of Helsinki from invaders.
The island is well-defended with portcullises and moats. Huge, thick walls protect all of the inhabitants.
We decided to return to Helsinki as soon as possible. We walked back on the island to the ferry dock and took it back to Helsinki.
The boat ride from Helsinki to Suomenlinna took 15 minutes and was covered by our 24-hour pass.
We walked across the islands to see the large cannons that defended Helsinki. The walk took about 25 minutes, but it was extremely windy, and Inna got a headache.
The southern part of Suomenlinna has large stone castle walls and cannons protecting the entrance to Helsinki harbor.
We found many cannons on the Suomenlinna islands, and Alex managed to climb a few.
Some enormous cannons were used to protect the port of Helsinki from invaders.
The island is well-defended with portcullises and moats. Huge, thick walls protect all of the inhabitants.
We decided to return to Helsinki as soon as possible. We walked back on the island to the ferry dock and took it back to Helsinki.
When we returned, we stopped by our favorite Cafe Kappeli, for tea and cake. Inna was really cold and needed some warming up.
We ordered a blueberry cake, cranberry moose, and hot black tea. Perfect!
Both desserts were delicious, and we devoured them quickly.
Since Alex had nothing to eat, I took him to his favorite Ben & Jerry's ice cream parlor for two scoops of ice cream (Cookie Dough & Caramel Chew-chew). It was a small portion, and Alex was disappointed.
We ordered a blueberry cake, cranberry moose, and hot black tea. Perfect!
Both desserts were delicious, and we devoured them quickly.
Since Alex had nothing to eat, I took him to his favorite Ben & Jerry's ice cream parlor for two scoops of ice cream (Cookie Dough & Caramel Chew-chew). It was a small portion, and Alex was disappointed.
We came back home and rested for a while. We decided to explore the famous Finnish department store - Stockmann's. It was housed in an 8-story building with everything one could imagine: a grocery store, a deli, a bakery, an ice cream parlor, a cafe, men's and women's clothing, a toy store, a household store, etc.
Some of the light displays were unique and Scandinavian-looking.
I did not understand the Finnish fascination with cows, but many were on display.
What really surprised me was the quality of the food. All the sandwiches looked freshly made in bakeries and in the deli. We tried the ice cream inside Stockmann's - Movenpick ( a Swiss brand we tried previously in England).
We ordered two scoops - one of black currant and one of rum & raisin. Both flavors were delicious and better than any ice cream I've had before (except for our homemade gelato). The bakery had beautiful croissants and Danishes, but we were packed and did not purchase any.
When we walked outside, we noticed that another building had Stockmann's name on it. It was a large bookstore with multiple cafes (a Starbucks and a Stockmann's). The bookstore had many more books than our Barnes & Noble. I was surprised that a bookstore this size could still exist and be profitable.
Some of the light displays were unique and Scandinavian-looking.
I did not understand the Finnish fascination with cows, but many were on display.
What really surprised me was the quality of the food. All the sandwiches looked freshly made in bakeries and in the deli. We tried the ice cream inside Stockmann's - Movenpick ( a Swiss brand we tried previously in England).
We ordered two scoops - one of black currant and one of rum & raisin. Both flavors were delicious and better than any ice cream I've had before (except for our homemade gelato). The bakery had beautiful croissants and Danishes, but we were packed and did not purchase any.
When we walked outside, we noticed that another building had Stockmann's name on it. It was a large bookstore with multiple cafes (a Starbucks and a Stockmann's). The bookstore had many more books than our Barnes & Noble. I was surprised that a bookstore this size could still exist and be profitable.
We returned to our hotel and picked up Alex, who was resting, to have dinner. We initially thought of eating sandwiches at Stockmann's, but Alex did not find any ones he liked. Then we walked to Cafe Kappeli but did not see much that Alex liked. I checked Yelp for nearby pizza places and found one highly rated nearby - Skiffer.
We walked a couple blocks there, just before it was closing. We ordered a salad (which turned out fantastic) and two pizzas: a "Margherita Pizza" for Alex and a "Fisherman's Pizza" for me. My Fisherman's pizza was a strange combination: salmon, radishes, greens, cucumber slices, basil leaves, and cheese.
Alex's Margherita pizza had buffalo mozzarella, greens, and onions. Both pizzas were incredibly delicious.
The thin crust die was extremely thin and delicious. It was one of the best pizzas we've had in a while. The pizza cost was expensive: Fisherman's cost 17 euros, Margherita's cost was 14 euros, and Salad was 16 euros. The total bill was 47 euros (about USD 64), which is expensive for pizza but inexpensive for Europe.
We walked a couple blocks there, just before it was closing. We ordered a salad (which turned out fantastic) and two pizzas: a "Margherita Pizza" for Alex and a "Fisherman's Pizza" for me. My Fisherman's pizza was a strange combination: salmon, radishes, greens, cucumber slices, basil leaves, and cheese.
Alex's Margherita pizza had buffalo mozzarella, greens, and onions. Both pizzas were incredibly delicious.
The thin crust die was extremely thin and delicious. It was one of the best pizzas we've had in a while. The pizza cost was expensive: Fisherman's cost 17 euros, Margherita's cost was 14 euros, and Salad was 16 euros. The total bill was 47 euros (about USD 64), which is expensive for pizza but inexpensive for Europe.
Finnish is a complex language to pronounce and remember. I could remember the words "Thank you" or "Kitos," but other expressions were more challenging to recall.
Friday, July 4, 2014
We woke around 8:30 a.m. and had our mediocre breakfast at our Original Sokos Hotel in Helsinki. Afterward, we decided to visit the Russian Uspenski Cathedral. Near our hotel was tram line #4 to the cathedral. It was a much more modest cathedral than the ones I've seen elsewhere, but still very tastefully designed and decorated.
Inside, the cathedral is beautifully furnished in lavish, Baroque style.
After a few photos, we took the tram to Stockmann's Department store, where we had our favorite Movenpick ice cream. Inna had the Swiss chocolate and hazelnut (she did not like the hazelnut), while I ordered the black currant and rum & raisin.
After the quick bite, we picked up a few souvenirs. Since time was short, we decided to have our last snack, or as I like to call it - prelunch - at Cafe Kappeli.
As usual, there was entertainment going on in front of the cafe. This time, there was a traditional Finnish men's Capella group singing. We went inside the cafe and ordered a couple of pastries. I had the Danish with strawberry and cream, which was delicious (better than in Copenhagen).
Next, we returned to our Original Sokos hotel, checked out, and took tram #9 to the ferry terminal. It took a few stops, and the tram was jam-packed with people. We arrived at the West Terminal around 12:45pm and immediately boarded the Tallink Silja Line.
Everything went very smoothly, and we sailed right on time.
Since our Tallink Silja Line ferry departs from Helsinki to Tallinn at 1:30 p.m., for a 3:30 p.m. arrival into Tallinn, Estonia, we had to get to the ferry terminal by 1:00pm for check-in (so we made it just in time). The enormous ferry holds large trucks, cars, motorcycles, and people. It also has multiple restaurants, pubs, and a kid's play area - just like a smaller cruise ship.
Alex ordered a Margherita pizza, which he enjoyed eating.
We enjoyed the ferry ride and looked forward to exploring Tallinn, Estonia.
Next stop, Tallinn.
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