Monday, March 9, 2026 (San Jose)
I woke at 07:00, showered, and shaved. I decided to finish packing for the trip to Italy and then head over to AVAC to work out. At AVAC, I rode the stationary bike for 40 minutes and the rowing machine for 20 minutes. I lifted a few weights and headed for the showers, returning home at 10:00.
I packed a few more things and practiced a few grade 1 and grade pieces in Easy Classical Guitar Volume 1 on my Suzuki No. 34 nylon-string guitar.
At around noon, having packed everything, we started our drive to the San Francisco airport. The traffic was light on US-101, but I was concerned about long TSA lines (due to the government shutdown). The ongoing US-Iran war was also adding uncertainty to our upcoming trip.
Thankfully, when we checked into Air France to print out our tickets (with TSA pre-check approval), we found the security lines mostly empty, and we quickly finished with security. Since we were flying business class, we were entitled to visit the Air France lounge.
After sitting down at the Air France Lounge, Inna and I sampled the buffet and picked out the following items:
- Drinks:
- Inna: sparkling water, cappuccino, Cosmopolitan cocktail
- Boris: still water, cappuccino, Kir Royale
- Salad: Spring mix with olive oil & vinegar
- Main: Salmon with veggies
- Snacks: Cookies, Macaroons, Cheeses (Brie)
There was a plethora of breads, cheeses, and desserts, but I didn't want to overeat.
Our Air France AF0083 flight from San Francisco (SFO) to Charles de Gaulle (CDG) was scheduled to depart at 16:40. At around 13:45, we heard an announcement that boarding was starting, and we headed for the departure gate.
Since we were flying business-class (seats 3E-3F), we boarded first. A lady was occupying my seat, but she incorrectly picked 3F instead of 3A. After she moved to her correct seat, I made myself comfortable.
During the flight to Paris, I watched a thriller:
The Housemaid, which turned out to be much better than expected. I also tried sleeping but could not fall asleep, so I closed my eyes, reclined, and listened to Dan Brown's
The Secret of Secrets audiobook.
In addition to dinner and breakfast, we were offered wine, spirits, and snacks during the flight. Service was acceptable - ie, a few times I asked for items (like hot tea), but they were forgotten. The cod was decent, but the croissants were below average (I expected better from Air France).
Tuesday, March 10, 2026
Though I didn't get any sleep during the flight, I did manage to rest most of the time. We landed in Paris' Charles de Gaulle airport, ahead of schedule, at around 11:30.
We had to go through passport control and another full luggage check, requiring us to remove all electronics from our bags (it took a lot longer and was quite tedious). We rode the airport's shuttle to terminal 2F (from 2E), where we looked for the Air France's lounge.
After locating it, we went in (hoping that our tickets would qualify for entrance - we did). Once inside, we found a small, cozy table to sit down and Inna found some quiche and salad. We also got a couple of machine-made cappuccinos. There were interesting 100% French wines and liquors that we did not try (but perhaps next time). Unlike our San Francisco Air France lounge, the one in Charles de Gaulle was much larger and much, much busier.
We boarded our AF1330 flight to Milan (MXP) on a smaller jet and took off on time (at 13:25). It was a short, 80-minute flight, and we landed in Milan's Malpensa (the farther airport) at 14:55. After landing, we thought about using the train to get back to Milan's downtown. A train ride would cost about 15 euros per person and last 44 minutes. However, the trains were leaving every 30 minutes, and we just missed one. We decided, being a bit tired, to take a taxi instead, which cost us 120 euros.
We checked into Park Hyatt (room #324), showered, and rested. We decided to stroll around the city a bit, stopping to marvel at the Milan Duomo and the nearby Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. The air quality was quite bad, and I smelled smoke everywhere.
For dinner, Inna made reservations at Paper Moon Giardino for 19:00. As we were tired, we decided to head there a bit earlier, at 18:30, hoping we could get a table earlier. When we arrived, the restaurant was not busy at all, and we were quickly seated.
We looked at the menu and ordered the following items to share:
- Drinks: Surgiva Still Water, House White Wine
- Appetizer: Fiori di Zucchini
- First: Risotto Scampi
- Second: Calamari alla Piastra
The
Fiori di Zucchini was excellent. The
Risotto was not bad (though a bit small). The
Calamari was not bad either.
Wednesday, March 11, 2026
In the morning, I worked out at the Park Hyatt gym. I rowed for 20-minutes on the rowing machine and worked out with free weights. It was not a nice, short 30-minute routine to get me moving.
After I returned to the hotel room, Inna and O dressed and walked to the nearby flagship Lavazza Milano. We decided to try eating a light breakfast there. Once seated, we were handed menus, but waited for a very long time. Since we had 10:00 tickets for the Milan Duomo, we decided to leave and return for breakfast afterwards.
We enjoyed our visit to the Milan Duomo, marveling at the beautiful glass-stained windows, the tall columns, and the intricate carvings throughout.
The Milan Duomo is the largest church in Italy and one of the most famous Gothic cathedrals in the world. Construction began in 1386 under the rule of Gian Galeazzo Visconti and continued for nearly six centuries, with the final details completed in the 20th century.
Built primarily from white and pink Candoglia marble, the cathedral is renowned for its forest of 135 ornate spires, thousands of statues, and elaborate Gothic decoration. The tallest spire supports a golden statue of the Madonnina, a beloved symbol of the city.
Inside, the cathedral features vast vaulted ceilings, massive stained-glass windows, and artworks spanning several centuries. Visitors can also climb or take an elevator to the rooftop terraces, which offer close-up views of the spires and sweeping views across Milan—and on very clear days, even the Alps in the distance.
Once we finished the tour, we decided to try eating breakfast at the Park Hyatt Hotel. We sat down inside, and we were given menus. Breakfast service was extremely fast and efficient. We ordered the following breakfast items.
- Uovo Benedictine Salmone (Eggs Benedict with Salmon)
- Yogurt
- Cestino Fornaio (still water)
- Cappuccino
- Bread basket
After breakfast, on the way to Pinacoteca di Brera, we briefly stopped by Milan's famous Teatro alla Scala. We thought about seeing tonight's performance of Wagner's Die Valkyrie, but I could not find tickets (nor did I have appropriate attire). Inna was also not prepared to endure a 3-hour+ opera.
When I reached Pinacoteca di Brera, I headed to purchase one ticket, while Inna decided to explore the local boutiques in the Brera neighborhood.
The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important art museums in Italy, located in the historic Brera Palace in Milan. Founded in 1809 during the Napoleonic era, the museum was originally created to house masterpieces collected from churches and monasteries across northern Italy.
Today the Pinacoteca holds an outstanding collection of Italian Renaissance and Baroque paintings, especially from the Venetian and Lombard schools. Highlights include works by major artists such as Raphael, Caravaggio, and Andrea Mantegna. One of the museum’s most famous pieces is The Marriage of the Virgin, celebrated for its balanced composition and architectural perspective.
Unlike some grand royal galleries, the Pinacoteca has a calm, scholarly atmosphere, reflecting its connection to the Brera Academy of Fine Arts, which still operates in the same complex. The museum is known for presenting Italian painting in a clear chronological sequence, making it an excellent place to understand the development of Italian art from the 14th to the 20th centuries.
I especially liked the painting The Kiss by Francesco Hayez, painted in 1859.
The artwork shows a young couple locked in an intense kiss while standing in a medieval stone hallway. The man appears ready to depart—his foot already on a step and a dagger hidden beneath his cloak—suggesting urgency and secrecy. The scene conveys both romantic passion and a sense of political intrigue.
Beyond its love story, the painting carries symbolic meaning related to Italian unification (the Risorgimento). Created during a time when Italy was striving to become a unified nation, the painting was interpreted as representing patriotism, sacrifice, and hope for freedom. Even the colors of the clothing have been read as subtle references to alliances that supported Italy’s independence.
Because of its emotional power and national symbolism, The Kiss, has become one of the most iconic images of Italian Romantic art and a beloved masterpiece of the Brera collection.
For lunch, we stopped by the La Prosciutteria Milano Brera, where we ordered the following items:
- Tagliere Pranzo Cena
- Tagliere Apertivo
- Drinks: Acqua Naturale, 2 x Cappuccino
The assortment of cold cuts, cheeses, and breads was delicious and relatively inexpensive. After lunch, we headed back to the Milan Duomo to visit the rooftop. Innad had purchased tickets to the top, and we used the southside elevator to reach the top.
Milan Cathedral Rooftop Terraces
The rooftop terraces of the Milan Cathedral are one of the most unique cathedral experiences in the world. Unlike most churches, visitors can walk directly on the roof, moving among the forest of marble spires and statues that crown the cathedral.
What you see
-
Close-up Gothic architecture: The roof lets you stand only a few feet from the cathedral’s 135 marble spires, flying buttresses, and thousands of carved statues.
-
The Madonnina: At the highest point is the golden statue of the Virgin Mary known as the Madonnina, one of the most recognizable symbols of Milan.
-
City views: From the terraces you get panoramic views over Milan’s rooftops and modern skyline. On very clear days you can even see the Alps to the north
Why it’s special
The Duomo roof is unusual because the cathedral was designed with broad walkable terraces, allowing visitors to experience Gothic architecture from the outside and at eye level, rather than only looking up from the ground. Walking between the delicate marble pinnacles makes it feel almost like being inside the sculpture itself.
After visiting the rooftop of the Milan Duomo, we stopped by for a quick bite at the
Marchesi 1824, located inside the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. We ordered the following drinks and pastries:
- Drinks: Cappuccino, Cioccolate Arancia Cannella
- Dessert: Pasticcino, Cannolo Siciliano, Tazzina Ginaduia Mango e Passion
The small pastries were delicious, and the Hot Chocolate was especially rich, like our favorite from Thierry in Vancouver, BC. The cappuccinos were overpriced.
After our snack stop, we returned to our room #324 at Park Hyatt for a short rest. Inna decided to continue shopping, stopping by the Prada Flagship store at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele to purchase a wallet.
At 19:00, we met up for dinner at the Ristorante Stendhal Brera, where we ordered the following items:
- Drinks: Paloma (Inna)
- Appetizer: Salmon Tartare
- Main: Risotto with Truffles
- Main: La Cotoletta (Bone-in-veal chop) - a traditional Milanese dish
We really liked the romantic setting of
Ristorante Stendhal Brera, the ambiance, and the attentive service. The
Salmon Tartare was excellent, and the
Risotto with truffles was delicious.
La Cotoletta was also very good (but the portion was too large for both of us).
After dinner, we walked back to the Duomo, enjoying it at night, and also strolled around the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele.
Thursday, March 12, 2026
In the morning, I woke at 07:30, showered, and worked out in the hotel's gym. I rowed for 25 minutes and lifted free weights. After returning to our room, I packed the remaining items and waited for Inna to pack all of her belongings.
We headed for an à la carte breakfast, downstairs, in the Park Hyatt hotel. We ordered the same items as the day before:
- Uovo Benedictine Salmone (Eggs Benedict with Salmon)
- Yogurt
- Cestino Fornaio (still water)
- Cappuccino
- Bread basket (plain croissant, chocolate croissant)
After breakfast, we returned to our room to collect our luggage, then headed downstairs to check out. The hotel ordered us a taxi, and we were taken to the Hertz Car Rental at Milan's Linate airport. The ride took about 25 minutes and cost us 34 euros (much lower than I expected).
Once at the Gold Star Hertz counter, we were told that only Gold-Star members could pick up cars there directly. Non-gold member reservations needed to be done at the main Hertz counter in the airport. We walked about 10 minutes to the Linate airport, where I talked to a Hertz agent, who took down my license and passport info before renting me the dark-gray, 4-door, manual Opel Corsa automobile (License Plate: GX-076TP).
The Opel Corsa had the new USB-C port (unlike the USB-A on older versions), so I needed a different cable to charge my iPhone 14 Pro Max. It also lacked a rearview camera, making parking more difficult.
I used Google Maps to set Parcheggio Citta Alta Bergamo as my destination, since we planned to stop in Bergamo before continuing to Sermione.
Milan Trip Review
Highlights
Lowlights
- Heavy smog (AQI was 110). I did not realize that both Milan and Turin are located in an area known for heavy smog during the winter
Links
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