Saturday, July 4, 2026
After the 50-minute drive from Peyto Lake, we arrived at Storm Mountain Lodge, near Lake Louise. Inna had chosen the Storm Mountain Lodge for its convenient location for the many hikes around Lake Louise (since shuttles were required to access the hiking trails). (I wish that UberX were available for drop off at Lake Louise, as the price for shuttle transfers is crazy high)
The Storm Mountain Lodge is an authentic, rustic lodge - quite different from where we usually stay (we normally prefer modern hotels). We checked in and were provided directions to access our Cabin #2. It had our last name printed on the blackboard (a nice touch). We changed our dinner reservation from 19:30 to 18:15, as we wanted more daylight time to explore the area after dinner.
Our studio lodge (meant for 2 people) had one small room with a bathroom. The bathroom had the tub/shower and toilet, but not a sink (which was in the main room). There was no TV, and the decor was quite rustic/old-fashioned. I tried to connect to the WiFi (STORM_GUEST) in our room, but when I did connect, it was extremely slow. (The WiFi speed did not improve over the next 3 days)
We had purchased an Intex inflatable twin air bed for Alex (from Walmart) and proceeded to inflate it. It took us a few minutes to figure out how to insert the air pump into the mattress and how to inflate it. We were expecting the bed sheets & pillows to be prepared for us, but they were missing. Alex went to the main reception area and brought back the pillows, sheets, and blankets.
There was a fireplace, and we tried to start a fire, but it would not stay lit. We talked to the receptionist about getting help with it, and the manager came down with a blowtorch and started a very nice fire. He left us a few more kindlings to help start a fire in the fireplace.
At 18:15, we walked over to the reception/dinner area and sat down at a table. We were the first diners there, and we looked at the dinner menu. We selected the following dining choices:
- Appetizer: Lodge Bread & Butter, Greens (Salad)
- Drinks: Left Field Cider, Lonetree Dry Cider
- Boris: Game Burger (elk)
- Inna: Salmon
- Alex: Butcher Block
I really liked my Game Burger (elk meat), but Inna disliked the Salmon, so we ended up trading them. I ate the Salmon while Inna ate my burger. Alex enjoyed his Butcher Block. The Lodge Bread & Butter was delicious. I liked the sweeter Left Field Cider over the Lonetree Dry Cider.
After dinner, we walked around the trails on the property. I carried Bear Spray just in case, but we did not see or encounter any wild animals. There was nothing much to see.
We returned to our room, took an evening shower (as we had early hikes planned for the next morning), and then went to bed.
It was a bit cold at night, and I later learned how to adjust the room's propane heater. It's not obvious, as there is no thermostat.
Sunday, July 5, 2026
In the morning, after waking up at 06:00, we dressed and drove to the Summer Gondola for the bus shuttle to Lake Moraine. I write about
Lake Moraine in a separate
blog post.
After returning to Storm Mountain Lodge in the evening, we stopped by the rereceptionist to modify our dinner reservations.
Inna had made dinner reservations for 19:30, but having arrived early, we thought that eating dinner early would give us more time to play games in the reception area (which closes at 20:30). There was a metal string acoustic guitar too (on the mantle), but I did not try playing it. We were able to reschedule our dinner for 18:15 (an hour earlier).
At 18:15, we walked over to the reception/dinner area and sat down at a table. We were the first diners there, and we looked at the dinner menu. We selected the following dining choices:
- Appetizer: Lodge Bread & Butter, Greens (Salad)
- Drinks: 2 x Lonetree Dry Cider
- Boris: Game Burger (elk)
- Inna: Butcher Block
- Alex: Butcher Block
The Butcher Blocks were excellent, as was my Game Burger.
After dinner, we hung out in the reception area, playing cards. Inna kept winning all the games (as usual), but we had a fun time.
Monday, July 6, 2026
In the morning, after waking up at 06:30, we dressed and drove to the Lake Louise Summer Gondola for the bus shuttle to Lake Louise. We initially considered waking up at 05:20 to try to get parking at Lake Louise by 06:00, but decided instead to purchase tickets to the 08:00 shuttle.
When we reached the Summer Gondola parking, we parked our car and stopped by the Lake Louise Main Lodge to purchase sandwiches for the hike and a few breakfast items. (Note, there were offers for summer gondola rides to the top, with a chance to see bears.)
For breakfast, we purchased 3 small coffees, a couple of small pastries, and one muffin. Inna also purchased yogurt, but it turned out to be too sweet, and we discarded it.
We purchased a couple of sandwiches for our planned lunch on the trail. However, we did not eat them (since we stopped for lunch at Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse. We ended up eating the sandwiches on the next day's hike.
At 07:50, we rushed out to catch the Lake Louise Shuttle and quickly boarded it. We had to wait a few minutes for the shuttle to show up. We reached Lake Louise at 08:20 and began the long hike to the Plain of Six Glaciers. The first part of the hike was along the northern lakeshore of Lake Louise.
Lake Louise is arguably the most famous and iconic destination in Banff National Park, renowned worldwide for its surreal, brilliant turquoise water set against the backdrop of soaring peaks and the massive Victoria Glacier.
The lake gets its signature milky turquoise color from "rock flour"—fine powder created by glaciers grinding against rock as they move. When the glacial meltwater flows down into the lake, these tiny rock particles remain suspended in the water, refracting the light and creating the vivid blue and green hues that peak in brilliance during July and August.
Key Highlights & ActivitiesWorld-Class Hiking: It serves as the ultimate launching pad for some of the best trails in the Canadian Rockies. Beyond the flat walk along the shores, popular routes branch off into the alpine, including the steep trail up to the historic Lake Agnes Teahouse and the Big Beehive, or the longer journey deep into the glacial valley along the Plain of Six Glaciers.
On-the-Water Exploring: Canoeing is the classic way to experience the lake from a different perspective. A historic boathouse on the west shore offers canoe rentals, allowing you to paddle right up toward the mountain reflections, though the glacier-fed water remains far too cold for swimming year-round.
Winter Transformation: In the winter months, the lake completely freezes over and transforms into a snowy wonderland. It hosts one of the world's most scenic outdoor skating rinks, complete with an ice castle built right on the surface, while the surrounding trails become popular for snowshoeing and horse-drawn sleigh rides.
Lake Louise was gorgeous, but of a different color than the turquoise Lake Moraine. There was no wind on the lake, and the canoes were just starting to be rented out. The surrounding beauty of the Canadian Rockies was breathtaking.
The Plain of Six Glaciers Trail Overview
Distance: ~11.4 km (7.1 miles) round-trip to the historic teahouse; ~13.8 km (8.6 miles) if you continue past the teahouse to the true end of the trail at the Abbot Pass/glacier viewpoint.
Elevation Gain: ~365 meters (1,200 feet) to the teahouse; ~500 meters (1,640 feet) total to the final viewpoint.
Time: 3.5 to 5 hours round-trip.
Difficulty: Moderate. It’s a very steady, gradual climb rather than a steep scramble, making it highly manageable for anyone with a reasonable baseline of fitness.
The Route Breakdown
The Lake Louise Lakeshore (The Warm-up): The hike begins on the paved, flat path that wraps around the right (north) side of Lake Louise, starting right in front of the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. This first 2 km (1.2 miles) is entirely flat, offers classic postcard views looking back at the hotel, and is usually quite crowded.
The Forested Climb: At the far end of the lake, the pavement ends, the crowds thin out drastically, and the trail turns into a natural dirt-and-rock path. You’ll cross a silty, gravel delta where glacial meltwater feeds the lake and pass a rock wall frequently used by local rock climbers. From here, the trail begins a steady, gentle ascent through a subalpine forest of spruce and fir.
The Lateral Moraine & High Alpine Valley: As you push past the treeline, the valley bursts wide open. The terrain transitions into an exposed, rocky landscape shaped by ancient retreating glaciers. The trail follows the spine of a massive lateral moraine. The views here are spectacular: massive hanging glaciers, steep avalanche chutes, and plunging waterfalls surround you. (Note: Because this section is highly exposed, it can get very windy, cold, or intensely sunny—layers are essential).
The Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse: At about 5.5 km, you'll reach the historic double-story log cabin teahouse built by Swiss guides in 1929. It operates with no electricity or running water (staff hike supplies in on foot). It’s a perfect spot to rest, use the washrooms, and grab a tea or a fresh scone (keep in mind that it can get very busy during peak hours).
The Final Push to the Viewpoint: Many hikers stop at the teahouse, but it is highly recommended to continue the extra 1.2 to 1.5 km to the true end of the trail. The path past the teahouse is unmaintained and becomes steeper, tracking across looser shale and scree along a narrow ridge. It ends abruptly at a dramatic rocky perch overlooking the deeply crevassed Victoria Glacier. If you sit quietly, you can frequently hear the thunderous cracks and rumbles of avalanches and shifting ice calving off the mountain faces above.
We started the Plain of Six Glaciers hike at a fast tempo, frequently passing other hikers during the Lake Louise lakeshore section, and slowing down during the steeper sections of the trail.
We reached the Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse at around 11:00 and decided to stop for lunch there (although we had packed sandwiches). We ended up eating the sandwiches on the next day's hike. We were happy to learn that the teahouse accepted credit cards (as I carried little Canadian currency). The teahouse is cute and a nice rest stop after a long and tedious hike.
We sat upstairs at separate tables (most tables are really meant for two people) and ordered the following items:
- Boris: Meal Option 2 (Chili of the Day, Cinnamon Streusal Loaf, Hot English Breakfast Tea)
- Inna: Cheese Sandwich, Tea Biscuits, Hot Tea
- Alex: Meal Option 2 (Chili of the Day, Chocolate Mousse, Hot Tea)
The lunch was adequate, as the chili was somewhat edible, but the Streusal Loaf was tasteless. The hot tea was the best part of lunch. Next time, just order hot tea only.
After lunch, we continued the hike to the Plain of Six Glaciers viewpoint. The terrain turned steeper with looser gravel, and Inna had some difficulties in going both uphill and downhill. The final viewpoint was nothing special and could have been skipped. We should have stopped much earlier, before the gravel section of the hike. The final viewpoint offered nothing new to photograph.
Our way back to Lake Louise was quite smooth with a few rest stops along the way. Inna started to get a bit tired (due to the long hike), and we took a few rest stops. The trail was quite busy (like Disneyland), and we encountered crowds of people along the trail.
Once we reached the Lake Louise lakeshore, the trail turned flat, and we were able to walk back at a brisk pace. We were hoping to rent a canoe for an hour, so that we could explore Lake Louise by boat. Luckily, the canoe rental line was not very long, and we were able to rent a canoe at about 15:00 for 180 Canadian dollars for one hour (way overpriced!)
There was very little wind on Lake Louise, and we had a wonderful time paddling around. It was quite enjoyable and compared favorably to canoeing on Lake Moraine. We managed to reach the other end of Lake Louise (which normally takes 30 minutes).
When we finished canoeing, we docked the boat and decided to explore the Fairmont Hotel. We found a nice cafe/bakery inside that served delicious coffee & pastries, and we purchased one to try. For Inna, it was another reason to stay at the Fairmont next time.
We rested by the lake, but there were crowds of people taking photos. As it was hot, we tried to find somewhere to sit and relax in the shade, but only managed to find benches in direct sunlight. We decided to try to return half an hour earlier at 17:00 instead of 17:30, and walked back to the shuttle pickup area. We were able to board the 17:00 Lake Louise shuttle and were quickly back in our Hyundai Kona. We drove to the Post Hotel, where Inna had made dinner reservations for 18:15. We thought that if we arrived early, we could possibly be seated a bit earlier, too.
We quickly reached the Post Hotel and waited to be seated. After being seated and given menus, we ordered the following items:
- Appetizer: Mushroom Toast
- Alex: Angus Beef
- Boris: Tagliatelle
- Inna: Halibut
- Desert: Rhubarb Ginger
- Drinks: No Boats On Sunday (apple cider), Last Chance (peach cider)
Our waiter, Benjamin K., was wonderful and talked about the menu and his time in the Lake Louise area. Our entrees were excellent and a level above in quality compared to our entrees at the Storm Mountain Lodge. The Tagliatele and the Halibut were especially delicious. The Rhubarb Ginger dessert was good - but quite small.
Inna really liked the Post Hotel as well, and it is the kind of hotel where she'd like to stay. There was a grand piano, on which a player started playing later on. We didn't really want to leave.
There was a FIFA World Cup game - USA vs. Belgium - on the big screen television, and we decided to sit down and watch. Alex and I were rooting for the U.S. team and hoping for a miracle.
We started watching halfway through the match, when the U.S. was losing 1-2. We were really hoping that the U.S. team would strike back. However, the Belgian team was too formidable and made fewer unforced errors. Team USA did not score any more goals, while the Belgian team scored two more goals, widening the lead from 1-2 to 1-4 (a blowout).
After dinner, we drove back to the Strom Mountain Lodge to rest and relax. It was an extremely long and tiring day, and everyone was very tired. We decided to go to bed early, at 10:30.
Tuesday, July 6, 2027
In the morning, we woke later than usual - at 07:30, as we wanted to have more rest. We decided to try eating breakfast (for the first time) at the Storm Mountain Lodge.
There was not much available for breakfast - a few pastries and coffee (a bit disappointing for an expensive hotel). The only yogurt was sweetened - not the plain Greek yogurt that we prefer - and the eggs cost extra. We ate a few of the croissants and drank the coffee (but had expected a bit more).
We checked out of Storm Mountain Lodge and started our drive to several hikes and viewpoints that we had previously planned. Alex was happy that he would not have to sleep anymore on the uncomfortable inflatable twin bed.
Our first stop was at Emerald Lake. As we started our drive at 09:00, we were worried about the limited parking there. When we arrived at 09:45, we managed to find one of the last spots in the parking lot - and it was still 0.5 miles away from Emerald Lake.
Emerald Lake is the crown jewel of Yoho National Park, located just over the Alberta-British Columbia border and about a 30-minute drive west of Lake Louise. Like its famous neighbor, it features striking, vibrant water, but it offers a distinctly quieter, more serene wilderness atmosphere.
True to its name, the water features a deep, intense green-turquoise hue. Because it sits at a slightly lower elevation than Lake Louise, it thaws earlier in the spring (usually by late May), and its coloration is caused by a mixture of glacial rock flour and fine white calcium carbonate (maritime marl) suspended in the water, which beautifully reflects the intense emerald spectrum.
Key Highlights & Activities
The Lakeshore Trail: A highly accessible, mostly flat 5.2 km (3.2 miles) loop circles the entire perimeter of the lake. The first half of the trail is paved and wheelchair-accessible, crossing a wooden bridge and wandering through an ancient, humid cedar and hemlock forest, while the back half opens up to dramatic views of avalanche paths and the towering President Range.
Canoeing: A rustic historic boathouse sits near the entrance, offering canoe rentals for visitors who want to paddle across the glassy water. Because it sees slightly fewer massive tour crowds than Lake Louise, paddling here often feels incredibly peaceful.
The Emerald Lake Lodge: Perched on a small peninsula reachable by a footbridge, this historic lodge features cozy log cabins, massive stone fireplaces, and an upscale dining room. It blends seamlessly into the forested shoreline, providing a striking focal point for photography.
Our second stop was at the nearby Natural Bridge. The parking lot was very small, but we managed to find a spot. Although there were no hikes here, the views of the rushing water beneath the natural rock formations were breathtaking, and we took lots of photos.
Natural Bridge is a striking geological formation located just a short drive down Emerald Lake Road in Yoho National Park, British Columbia. It makes for an ideal, quick stop on your way to or from Emerald Lake.
This unique rock formation illustrates the sheer erosive power of rushing water. Over millennia, the roaring, silt-laden waters of the Kicking Horse River carved a path right through a solid wall of ancient limestone. What began as a small crack eventually wore away into a massive, wide opening beneath the rock face, leaving a sturdy stone bridge spanning across the roiling canyon.
Our third and final stop was at the Takakkaw Falls. We had to wait for about 10 minutes to find an available parking spot. Once we parked, we started the short stroll to the actual falls. The Takakkaw Falls were spectacular, and we took many photos.
We walked closer to the falls themselves, but the fine mist coming off the falls became quite heavy, and we turned around. We did not want to get soaked.
Takakkaw Falls is one of the most spectacular sights in Yoho National Park. The name is a Cree expression meaning "it is magnificent," and given its scale and power, the name is well-earned.
The Landscape and Science
The Scale: With a total height of 373 meters (1,224 feet), it is widely considered one of Canada’s tallest waterfalls. The main, free-falling drop is 254 meters (833 feet) of sheer plunge.
The Source: It is fed by the Daly Glacier, which is part of the high-altitude Waputik Icefield. Because it is glacial-fed, the volume of water changes dramatically throughout the day—it is usually at its most thunderous in the afternoons of July and August as the day’s warmth melts the ice above.
The "Rooster Tail": A distinct feature of the falls is the "rooster tail"—an effect where the water hits a rock shelf partway down the cliff face and gets kicked outward, sometimes shooting dozens of meters away from the rock before continuing its descent.
Visitor Experience
Access: A very short, easy, and paved 1.4 km (0.9 mile) round-trip trail leads from the parking lot to the base of the falls. You will get soaked if you walk to the very end of the path during peak flow, so a waterproof jacket is a good idea.
The Drive: The journey to the trailhead is an adventure in itself. The Yoho Valley Road includes a series of tight, steep switchbacks. Note: Trailers are strictly prohibited, and vehicles over 7 meters (23 feet) in length (like many RVs) must reverse to navigate the turns.
Seasonality: Because the road crosses high-frequency avalanche terrain, it is closed for the winter. It typically opens in mid-June and closes in mid-October.
On the way back from the Falls, we noticed a Canadian Search-and-Rescue helicopter hovering. We saw the helicopter carry someone to the base of the Falls and pick someone up.
After we finished with Takakkaw Falls, we returned to our car and started the long, two-hour drive to our final destination - Kananaskis Village Hotel (where Inna had made reservations to use the Nordic Spa).
Lake Louise Trip Report
Highlights
- The incredible beauty of Lake Louise and the surrounding Canadian Rockies
- Amazing (but expensive) canoeing on Lake Louise
- Fantastic hiking to the Plain of Six Glaciers
- Enjoying dinner at the Post Hotel
- Delicious pastries at the Fairmont Hotel
Lowlights
- Access to Lake Moraine or Lake Louise requires the use of expensive private bus shuttles (usually around $50/person). Technically, Lake Louise does have parking (but you ust get there before 06:00 to have a chance)
- At Storm Mountain Lodge, WiFi was extremely slow (and cellphone service was spotty), backing up photos to iCloud, updating apps, checking email, and reading news was difficult. We also did not like the lack of modern amenities and the early closing time of the reception
- Large crowds of tourists on every popular hike (every hike felt like a ride at Disneyland)
- High prices at hotels, lodges, and restaurants (even for mediocre quality)
- The Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse was a bit disappointing (in terms of food quality).
Links
- Storm Mountain Lodge
- Post Hotel
- Fairmont at Lake Louise
