Saturday, October 5, 2024

Vising Cascais, Portugal

At around 9:30, I ordered UberX from Torel Palace Hotel to Cais do Sodre Train station, which regularly departs for Caicais. We arrived at about 9:57, missing the 10:00 train for Cascais. However, we boarded the next 10:20 train.

According to Wikipedia (see more about Cascais):

Cascais is a town and municipality in the Lisbon District of Portugal on the Portuguese Riviera. The city has 214,158 inhabitants[1] and an area of 97.40 km2.[2] Cascais is an important tourist destination. Its marina hosts events such as the America's Cup, and the town of Estoril, part of the Cascais municipality, hosts conferences such as the Horasis Global Meeting.

Cascais's history as a popular seaside resort began in the 1870s when King Luís I of Portugal and the Portuguese royal family made the seaside town their residence every September. This also attracted members of the Portuguese nobility, who established a summer community there. 
Cascais is known for the many members of royalty who have lived there, including King Edward VIII of the United Kingdom when he was the Duke of Windsor, King Juan Carlos I of Spain, and King Umberto II of Italy
Exiled Cuban president Fulgencio Batista was also once a resident of the municipality. The Casino Estoril inspired Ian Fleming's first James Bond novel, Casino Royale.[3]
The municipality is one of the wealthiest in Portugal and the Iberian Peninsula. It has one of the most expensive real estate markets and one of the highest costs of living in the country, and is consistently ranked highly for its quality of life.

On arrival at Cascais (about 40 minutes later), we started exploring the town. The weather was initially foggy and cloudy. However, the fog cleared by noon, and the sun came out with clouds disappearing.

We saw many interesting shops and restaurants and stopped at Palácio Seixas to take photos. We saw a few people swimming and SUPping on the beach. 

We decided to continue exploring and stopped at Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães. At first, we toured the beautiful gardens with a large tower built up. Then, at around 12:30, we purchased tickets to see the inside. We toured the three-story building and saw some notable paintings and furniture.

According to Wikipedia (see also Palácio dos Condes de Castro Guimarães):

The Palácio dos Condes de Castro Guimarães, originally known as the Torre de São Sebastião (St Sebastian's Tower), was built in 1900 as an aristocrat’s summer residence in Cascais, Lisbon District, Portugal
It became a museum in 1931. The building follows an eclectic architectural style, while the museum includes paintings of national and international significance, furniture, porcelain, jewelry, and a neo-Gothic organ.

Our next stop was the Caiscas Lighthouse (Farol Museu de Santa Marta), which was closed. We continued our long walk, stopping at the famous Boca do Inferno, described as:

These scenic oceanfront cliffs feature a natural archway & open cave created by pounding waves.
It was past lunchtime, so we stopped by Mar do Inferno for seafood. After sitting down, we ordered a seafood platter for two, which included fresh seafood (sea bass, large shrimp, clams, and broccoli).
The seafood was delicious!

After lunch, we walked back downtown, looking at various shops. In the Cascais Marina, we found a mall with high-end stores. We looked around for some time but did not buy anything.

We decided to get a light dessert and stopped by a nearby Paul bakery for pastries. I had an espresso with a couple of pastries. The pastries were delicious!

We also tied coffee at the highly rated Coffee Cascais Centro. I tried the mocha while Inna explored the shops around Cascais.

Cascais Trip Report

Highlights

Lowlights
  • Hot, muggy weather




Friday, October 4, 2024

Visiting Sintra, Portugal

Friday, October 4, 2024

Inna arranged a private tour of Sintra, and we met our guide - Nino (from Vangotourism) - at 09:20, just outside our Torel Place Hotel. He had arrived in a Mercedes-Benz van, and we were quickly on our way to Sintra. There was heavy traffic on the way, but we arrived around 09:30. 

Nino is a local Portuguese guide who lives in Sintra and speaks English, French, Italian, and Spanish (in addition to his native Portuguese). He showed us all of the major sites (and saved us a lot of time), as we bypassed most long lines to attractions.

Upon arriving in Sintra, we first stopped at Casa Priquita, a small, historic bakery founded in 1862 that sells specialty pastries. After a light snack of queijadas and espresso, we walked around downtown. (I still prefer the Pastel de Nata.)

The weather was quite foggy, with light, misty rain throughout the day. Our guide mentioned that this is typical Sintra weather (though when Inna visited last time, she lucked out with sunny weather).

Our first stop was the Sintra National Palace (Palacio National de Sintra). We walked around the palace, taking many photos. It was a beautiful palace with sections built in various centuries.

According to Wikipedia (see also Sintra National Palace):

The Palace of Sintra (Portuguese: Palácio de Sintra), also called Town Palace (Palácio da Vila), is located in the town of Sintra. It is a present-day historic house museum.

It is the best-preserved medieval royal residence in Portugal, being inhabited more or less continuously from at least the early 15th century to the late 19th century. It is a significant tourist attraction and part of the cultural landscape of Sintra, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Our guide had pre-purchased tickets for Quinta da Regaleira at 10:30, and we hurried to arrive on time. We started our visit with the Initiation Well, a long, winding staircase to the bottom. At the bottom, we walked through multiple deep caves. We continued our tour through the Regaleira Palace and saw many beautifully decorated rooms.

According to Wikipedia (see also Quinta da Regaleira):

Quinta da Regaleira is a Quinta (farm) located near the historic center of Sintra, Portugal.

The property consists of a Romantic palace and chapel and a luxurious park that features lakes, grottoes, wells, benches, fountains, and a vast array of exquisite constructions. 
The palace is also known as "The Palace of Monteiro the Millionaire," based on the nickname of its best-known former owner, António Augusto Carvalho MonteiroThe palace was designed by the Italian architect Luigi Manini.

We loved walking around Regaleira and wished we had more time to enjoy the palace, park, tunnels, wells, and fountains. It's truly a magical place that's worth visiting.

Around noon, we walked back to Sintra's downtown for lunch. Our guide suggested Cafe Paris, and we sat down outdoors (with a lovely umbrella blocking any light rain), ordering the following items:

  • Appetizer: Tomato & Buffalo salad
  • Boris: Crepe with Chicken, Espresso
  • Inna: Crepe with Ham, Hot Black Tea
  • Dessert: 2 Pastel da Nuta
The crepes were delicious, and the waiters were very fast. The Pastel da Nuta was first-rate (warm and tasty, freshly out of the oven).

After lunch, we drove to the top of Sintra to see the famous Pena Palace. Due to heavy congestion, it took some time to get there. Our guide found parking, and we walked to the entrance gate. We then boarded a small bus to the very top. We toured the beautiful palace, taking lots of photos.

According to Wikipedia (see also Pena Palace):

The Pena Palace (Portuguese: Palácio da Pena) is a Romanticist castle on the Portuguese Riviera, located in São Pedro de Penaferrim, municipality of Sintra. 
The castle stands on top of a hill in the Sintra Mountains above the town of Sintra, and on a clear day, it can be easily seen from Lisbon and much of its metropolitan area
It is a national monument and one of the major expressions of 19th-century Romanticism in the world. The palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. The president of the Portuguese Republic and other government officials also use it for state occasions.

After touring the palace, we walked downhill about 900m to the enormous garden to see the five beautiful lakes.  There was a beautiful tower in the middle of one lake. We also saw a grey rabbit munching on some leaves nearby. He was used to people and did not hop away when we approached him.

We also briefly stopped by the Moorish Castle but did not stay long due to poor visibility. 

According to Wikipedia (see also Castle of the Moors):

The Castle of the Moors (Portuguese: Castelo dos Mouros) is a hilltop medieval castle in the central Portuguese civil parish of Santa Maria e São Miguel, in Sintra, about 25 km (16 mi) northwest of Lisbon
Built by the Moors in the 8th and 9th centuries, it was an important strategic point during the Reconquista and was taken by Christian forces after the fall of Lisbon in 1147. It is classified as a National Monument, part of the Sintra Cultural Landscape, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

I would have liked to climb some castle walls to take photos of the surrounding castles. As the light rain started to turn heavier, we decided to shorten our time at the Moorish Castle and return to the van for our return trip to Lisbon.


Sintra Trip Report

Highlights

Lowlights

  • Foggy weather with occasional light rain and low visibility

Tuesday, October 1, 2024

Back to Lisbon, Portugal

Monday, September 30, 2024

On Monday, September 30th, at 18:00, when we finished sightseeing the Budda Eden Garden of Peace, we drove to Lisbon (LIS) airport, where I was scheduled to drop off my rented Nissan Qashqai at Hertz Car Rental.

There was some traffic on the way there, but we arrived at 19:00 and found the Hertz Rental car return near the airport. My fuel tank was about 50% full, and I did not have time to fill it up to 100%. I dropped off the Nissan, and Hertz did a thorough inspection and found no issues.

We returned to the arrival terminal, and Inna ordered an Uber to take us to the Torel Palace Hotel in Lisbon.

We checked into Torel Palace Hotel and were taken by our hostess to room #19 in the Blue Building (which also houses the Black Pavilion Restaurant).

As I felt tired and sweaty, I decided to shower while Inna unpacked her suitcase. Afterward, I unpacked my suitcase (our room had plenty of storage for various items).

We decided to eat dinner at the hotel's Black Pavilion restaurant (as we did not need to make any advance dinner reservations). After looking at the dinner menu and asking our waiter for recommendations, we ordered the following items:

  • Appetizer: Tomato & Burrata, Fresh Bread & Butter
  • Drinks: Pellegrino, Hot English Breakfast Tea
  • Boris: Bacalhau "Pil-Pil" Cod and Chickpeas
  • Inna: Pork Cheeks & Mushrooms
  • Dessert: Chocolate Cake & Red Fruits

We liked the Tomato & Burrata and the fresh breadMy Bacalhau "Pil-Pil" Cod was not impressive (I am not a cod connoisseur), but Inna loved her Pork Cheeks and Mushrooms. The Chocolate Cake dessert was excellent. Service was fast, polite, and efficient.


Tuesday, October 1, 2024 

After waking up at 07:30, I took a shower and dressed. We walked downstairs for breakfast at the Black Pavilion restaurant buffet. We selected the following items from the buffet:

  • Scrambled eggs (not very soft; next time, we will order an omelet)
  • Roasted tomatoes
  • Multi-grain Bread (needed to be toasted)
  • Yogurt with Jam (delicious!)
  • Various Pastries (but not Pastel da Nuta)
  • Espresso
Overall, the breakfast was delicious, and the service was excellent.

After breakfast, we met Hugo - our Took-took guide - on the street at 09:20 (he was running late).
He took us to the following sites on an electrically powered 3-wheeler:
  • St. Vencent Monument
  • Sao Pedra de Alcantara Viewpoint
  • Graca Viewpoint
  • Rua Augusta Arch
  • Jeronimos Monastery (there was a huge line to get in)
  • Belem Tower
  • Discoveries Monument
  • National Maritime Museum
  • Time-out Market (where we stopped for lunch at Liberta Pasta Bar)
According to Hugo, St. George was secretly practicing Christianity and keeping records of other practicing Christians. When Romans discovered him, they tortured him in the hope of getting the names of other practicing Christians, but he refused and died from the torture. His ashes were lost until a ship was sent to retrieve them. The sailors were able to find St. George's dead body, as it was marked by a pair of birds circling overhead. The birds continued to circle overhead as the body was returned to Portugal.

Our guide also stopped by Pastéis de Belém, the best pasteria, and purchased us a freshly baked Pastel da Belem pastry (original recipe - before Pastel de Nuta). It was so warm and delicious!

After our tuk-tuk tour, we were dropped off at the Time-Out Market for lunch. We did not like the crowded and noisy conditions inside and decided to eat outside. We selected Liberta Pasta Bar and ordered a few dishes, including:
  • Appetizer: Burrata 
  • Drinks: Sparkling Water, Lemonade
  • Boris: Ragu Bolognese
  • Inna: Ravioli di Manzo
The Burrata was delicious, but the Ragu Bolognese was mediocre. Service was also slow. 

After lunch, we ordered a Bolt to take us to the Belem Tower. I hoped to go inside, but the tickets were all sold out. Next time, buy tickets well in advance.

Instead, we decided to visit the National Coach Museum. On the way there, we stopped by for a rest at an Italian Gelateria, where I ordered the following:
  • Boris: 3 Scoops: pistachio, chocolate, hazelnut
  • Inna: Affogato
After our short snack, we decided to visit the Monument to the Discoveries (instead of continuing to the National Coach Museum) as we were exhausted. We rode the elevator to the top of the Monument, which had excellent panoramic views of Lisbon, with the April 15th Bridge (like the Golden Gate), Christ the King Statue, Belem Tower, and the entire waterfront.

On our way down from the top floor, we saw a short exhibit on African immigrants to Portugal. We were tired, so we ordered an Uber to take us back to our Torel Place Hotel to rest.

At our Torel Palace Hotel, we first considered seeing Fado and asked the hostess to try making reservations, but all of the popular Fado restaurants were booked (or the opening times were too late for us).

Instead, we hung out at the bar, and I pre-ordered tickets for other events.

We decided to stay in the hotel for dinner, as we truly liked our Black Pavilion restaurant. We ordered the following items:
  • Appetizer: Tomato & Burrata, Fresh Bread & Butter
  • Drinks: Pellegrino, Hot English Breakfast Tea
  • Boris: Steak with Mushroom Sauce
  • Inna: Pork Cheeks & Mushrooms
  • Dessert: Creme Brulee with Olive Oil

Wednesday, October 2, 2024

After waking up at 07:30, I showered, shaved and dressed. We walked downstairs for breakfast at the Black Pavilion restaurant buffet. We selected the following items:

  • Yogurt with Jam (delicious!)
  • Omelet with tomatoes and mushrooms
  • Various Pastries (but not Pastel da Nuta)
  • Espresso
Overall, the breakfast was quite good, and the service was excellent.

After breakfast, Inna ordered an UberX to Jeronimos Monastery, for which I had tickets for admission at 09:30. We arrived at around 09:40, and I queued up in a very long line. Despite having tickets, I had to wait almost an hour before being allowed entry. 

We were finally admitted into Jeronimos Monastery at around 10:30. I thought I had visited the monastery during my Celebrity Cruises' stop at Lisbon, but I was mistaken. I had previously visited the nearby St. Maria of Belem Church.

The Jeronimos Monastery was quite large, with many elaborate stone carvings. We started on the 2nd floor and then walked down to the first floor. It was quite beautiful and peaceful. 

When we finished with the Monastery, I also wanted to visit the nearby Maritime Museum, as I was interested in learning about ancient Portuguese navigators. I purchased the 8.00 euro ticket while Inna waited at the nearby Maritime Cafe (she had no interest in the Maritime Museum).

The Maritime Museum told the story of the ancient beginnings of Portuguese expeditions and voyages of discovery. It displayed models of the Caravels used by Vasco de Gamma and Ferdinand Magellan, as well as many old navigational instruments (astrolabes, compasses, sextants) and ancient maps.

I enjoyed learning about the famous explorers and their daring exploits. Some old barks were also on display.

After I finished with the museum, I met up with Inna at the Maritime Cafe, and we ordered an Uber to take us to the National Tile Museum.

We had an enjoyable 30-minute Uber ride with a young Portuguese driver who drives Uber for a living. He speaks multiple languages (French, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese) and is also learning Russian. He had previously worked in northern Italy and eastern France (around Lyon) and thought that people in France were friendlier.

Once we were in the National Tile Museum, we purchased tickets and strolled around the two floors of tiles. There were some unique tiles, but I found the museum less exciting than Inna.

After the museum, we stopped by Hell's Chicken for a quick lunch. I had barbecue chicken with salad while Inna drank some sparkling water. It's a whole-in-the-wall place, but the chicken was pretty good.

As it started raining, we ordered an Uber to take us to Lisbon's oldest bookstore, Livraria Bertrand—Chiado. There, I had an espresso while Inna had tea, and we looked at various books. We decided to purchase Lewis Carroll's Alice in Wonderland.

We strolled around the narrow streets, looking at various shops, and listened to a street musician singing popular songs (Adele, Bee Gees) at A Brasileira. While there, I ordered some local rose wine, and Inna drank some tea.

We also noticed the following Cruise Ships docked in Lisbon:
  • Seven Seas Mariner
  • Azamara Journey
  • P&O Iona
  • Virgin Voyages Resilient Lady
When in port, substantial tour groups from the ships visited the famous sites, and entry became difficult. We could see the organized tours at the National Tile Museum, Jeronimos Monastery, and other venues.

We returned to our hotel and rested before going downstairs for dinner at Black Pavilion, ordering the following:
  • Appetizer: Tomato & Burrata, Fresh Bread & Butter
  • Drinks: Pellegrino, Hot English Breakfast Tea
  • Inna: Steak with Mushroom Sauce (125 grams)
  • Boris: Tagliatelle with Tomato Sauce

Thursday, October 3, 2024

After waking up at 07:30, I showered, shaved and dressed. We walked downstairs for breakfast at the Black Pavilion restaurant buffet. We selected the following items:

  • Yogurt with Jam (delicious!)
  • Omelet with tomatoes and mushrooms
  • Various Pastries
  • Espresso
We had plans to visit the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, and I ordered UberX to take us there.

Calouste Gulbenkian, an Armenian businessman, amassed vast wealth in oil and collected many paintings, statues, and other fine art. This museum holds his fine art collection, organized by regions:
  • Ancient Egypt
  • Ancient Greece
  • Ancient Persia and Armenia
  • Ancient China
  • French Painters
  • Antique Furniture
  • Silverware
  • Renee Lalique
I especially liked the Egyptian, Greek, Chinese, and French art.

After a few hours admiring the collection, we ate lunch at the museum's cafe. We ordered the following items:
  • Boris: Salad with chicken (Salada Frango)
  • Inna: Quiche
  • Dessert: Almond Tarte
  • Drinks: Water, Lemonade, Latte, Espresso
The cafe was inexpensive, and the food quality was acceptable for a museum.
After lunch, we stopped briefly at the Gulbenkian Modern Art annex. I didn't like any of the modern art pieces shown there.

I ordered an UberX to take us to Lisbon's Oceanarium, and after a 30-minute ride, we arrived. I purchased two tickets (23.00 euros/person), including the pass for the Teleferico cable car.

The Oceanarium was excellent, and we spent about three hours looking at various fish from different oceans (Atlantic, Indian, Pacific, Arctic). Our favorite, by far, was the Common Seadragon. It was so beautiful and unique. Many sharks, including Black Tip, and countless varieties of fish species were swimming in the main tank. We also saw penguins feeding (some of them were being fed like babies)

When we finished with the Oceanarium, we rode the Teleferico along the coast, with beautiful views of the surroundings (Oriente Train Station).

We returned to A Brasileira cafe to listen to street musicians, drink tea or wine, and rest. I ordered a local Rose, while Inna ordered Hot Tea with a couple of Pastel da Nuta. The street musician playing was not as entertaining as the one from the day before (and I was also annoyed by the couple next to me smoking cigarettes)

After we finished our drinks, we paid and returned to the Torel Palace Hotel. We considered eating dinner elsewhere but could not find a reasonably-priced restaurant that did not require a reservation. Our first idea was to try Pinoquio, but it had a huge line.

We returned to our hotel and sat down at Black Pavilion, ordering the following:
  • Appetizer: Tomato & Burrata, Sea Scallops, Fresh Bread & Butter
  • Drinks: Pellegrino, Hot English Breakfast Tea
  • Inna: Steak with Mushroom Sauce (125 grams)
  • Boris: Steak with Mushroom Sauce (125 grams)
  • Dessert: Creme Brulee

Friday, October 4, 2024

Since we had arranged a private visit to Sintra, we had to wake up earlier than usual. After waking up at 06:30, I showered, shaved, and dressed.

We walked downstairs for breakfast at the Black Pavilion restaurant buffet. We selected the following items:

  • Yogurt with Jam (delicious!)
  • Omelet with tomatoes and mushrooms
  • Various Pastries
  • Espresso
I write about the Sintra visit in a separate blog post.

When we returned to Lisbon from Sintra, we rested and ate our last dinner at the Black Pavilion:
  • Appetizer: Tomato & Burrata, Sea Scallops, Fresh Bread & Butter
  • Drinks: Pellegrino, Hot English Breakfast Tea
  • Inna: Steak with Mushroom Sauce (125 grams)
  • Boris: Steak with Mustard Sauce (125 grams)
  • Dessert: Creme Brulee
As usual, we loved our dinner at the Black Pavilion.


Saturday, October 5, 2024

I woke up at 07:55 and dressed. After breakfast, we traveled to Cascais, which I wrote about in a separate blog post.

When we returned to Lisbon from Cascais, we rested and ate our last dinner while sitting at the outdoor tables of the Black Pavilion. We ordered the following:
  • Appetizer: Guacamole & Crab Toast, Tomato & Burrata, Fresh Bread & Butter
  • Drinks: Pellegrino, Hot English Breakfast Tea
  • Inna: Steak with Mushroom Sauce (125 grams)
  • Boris: Steak with Mushroom Sauce (125 grams)
  • Dessert: Creme Brulee
We enjoyed our dinner at the Black Pavilion and hope to return.

Sunday, October 6, 2024

I woke at 06:30, showered, shaved, dressed, and packed. After a quick breakfast, we checked out of the Torel Palace Hotel, and  I ordered UberX to take us to the airport (20 minutes away). Unfortunately, my driver dropped me off, and I asked Inna to order (as she has a higher Uber rating). We were picked up at around 8:08 and taken to Lisbon Airport, arriving at 08:25. Inna got way over-charged on her UberX ride (it should have been 14.24 euros - not 74.24 euros) and she had to work to get the charge reversed.

Fortunately, our return flight on Air Portugal TP247 from LIS to SFO was delayed. To get to gate 47A, we needed to go through three separate queues (ticket, security, and passport check). Priority boarding was painless, though we needed to board a bus to get on the plane.

While on the Airbus, I also re-read my favorite, The Incredible Life of Hubert Wilkins: Australia's Greatest Explorer by Peter FitzSimons, on my Kindle.

I also watched the following movies: Joker and Goldfinch (though my headphones had the left speaker broken):

Joker: A somewhat depressing take on mental illness (Rating B)
Arthur Fleck, a party clown and a failed stand-up comedian, leads an impoverished life with his ailing mother. However, when society shuns him and brands him as a freak, he decides to embrace the life of crime and chaos in Gotham City.
Goldfinch: An exciting but unrealistic mystery (Rating: B)
A wealthy family takes in a boy in New York after his mother is killed in a bombing at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In a rush of panic, he steals 'The Goldfinch,' a painting that eventually draws him into a world of crime.
I also tried watching Elvis (Rate: C), Death on the Nile (Rate: C), and Anyone But You (Rate: C), but I could not complete watching them, as they were not very stimulating.

We landed in San Francisco at 15:00, breezed through immigration and customs, and Alex picked us up at the International Arrivals terminal.

Lisbon Trip Report
Highlights

Lowlights
  • Huge crowds and sold-out tickets at Belem Tower
  • Long lines in restaurants (dinners require reservations)
  • Getting ripped off on Hertz Auto Insurance on my Nissan Qashqai car rental
    • Next time, use the credit card's free auto rental insurance

Monday, September 30, 2024

Visiting Buddha Eden Garden of Peace, Portugal

After visiting Obidos and Caldas da Rainha, we drove for 30 minutes to Buddha Eden Garden of Peace in Bombarral.

Once we purchased our tickets (12.00 euros/person), we waited to board a train to ride around the gardens. We got off at our first stop and started taking many photos.


The gardens are enormous and beautiful, and we were pleasantly surprised by the number and quality of the sculptures. There had to be over 1,000 Buddha statues (and many modern art sculptures too)


Some Buddha statues are enormous, and we can climb on top and enjoy the view.


Visiting Caldas da Rainha, Portugal

After stopping at Obidos, we had some free time and decided to visit the spa town of Caldas da Rainha.

Once we found free parking in Caldas da Rinha, we strolled through the Parque Dom Carlos I, which overlooks a small lake with rowboats and large hospitals.

If we had time, we would have liked to stroll through the park and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Being pressed for time, we decided to see the downtown and explore the nearby shops. One of the streets was lined with cute umbrellas.

Caldas da Rainha is a cute little spa town with interesting shops.

According to Wikipedia (see Caldas da Rainha):

Caldas da Rainha is a medium-sized Portuguese city in the Oeste region, in the historical province of Estremadura, and in the district of Leiria. The city serves as the seat of the larger municipality of the same name, and the Comunidade Intermunicipal do Oeste (OesteCIM, Intermunicipal Community of the West). 
At the 2011 census, the municipality had a population of 51,729 in an area of 255.69 square kilometers (98.72 sq mi), with 30,343 residing there. Although the city lies about 10.5 kilometers (6.5 mi) inland, three of the municipality's civil parishes lie on the Atlantic Ocean. Caldas da Rainha is best known for its sulfurous hot springs and ceramic pottery.

The settlement was founded in the 15th century by Queen Leonor (Rainha Dona Leonor), who established a hospital and a church at the site of some therapeutic hot springs. The Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor (Queen Leonor Spring Water Hospital, or Thermal Hospital) is the oldest purpose-built institution in the world, with five centuries of history. The city's name, often shortened to simply "Caldas," can be translated as "Queen's Hot Springs," "Queen's Spa," or "Queen's Baths."

Caldas da Rainha is a UNESCO Creative City. It is home to many cultural institutions. The city's nine museums cover art, history, and cycling. Cultural and sports venues include Centro Cultural e de Congressos (CCC, Cultural and Conference Centre), a center for performing arts, exhibitions, and conferences; Expoeste – Centro de Exposições do Oeste (Exhibition Centre of the West), which hosts exhibitions and festivals; a bullring; several football (soccer) pitches; and a multi-sport municipal complex. 
Caldas hosts six professional and higher-educational institutions, including a significant arts and design school and a school devoted to ceramics. In 2014, Caldas da Rainha had the best public secondary school in Portugal based on national test scores.


Visiting Obidos, Portugal

Monday, September 30, 2024

After a delicious breakfast at Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas, we packed our suitcases and drove to Obidos. It was about 08:30, and some rush-hour traffic slowed us down on our way.

We arrived in Obidos' vicinity around 10:00 and parked in the unpaved but Free Parking lot. From there, we walked across the street and entered the medieval city of Obidos (protected by city walls).

According to Wikipedia, the history of (Obidos) is quite interesting:

The name "Óbidos" is a Latinised (oppidum, citadel) derivation of the older Celtic "Eburobricio." The municipality grew from a Roman settlement near the foothills of an elevated escarpment. The region of Óbidos, extending from the Atlantic to the interior of Estremadura Province along the rivers and lakes has been inhabited since the late Paleolithic.[3] A settlement constructed by early Celt tribes later became a trade center for the Phoenicians.[3] Archeological evidence from the base of the medieval tower (south of Facho) at Óbidos Castle indicates Roman construction linked to an outpost of the Roman civitas of Eburobrittium, a large urban area under excavation.[3] Archeological surveys determined the remains of a forum, baths, and other Roman structures near the settlement.

After the fall of Rome, the region came under the influence of the Visigoths, although specific records are missing. The Roman town of Eburobrittium was abandoned in the 5th century for the more secure hilltop where the principal settlement is today. Sometime after 713, the Moors established a fortification on this mountain, while a Christian community of Mozarabs lived in the Moncharro neighborhood.

The city was taken from the Moors during the reign of the first King of Portugal, Afonso Henriques, in 1148. Tradition states that one knight, Gonçalo Mendes da Maia, was responsible for successfully storming the Moorish castle.[3] The retaking of Óbidos was the final stage in the conquest of the Estremadura Province region after the settlements of Santarém, Lisbon, and Torres Vedras. Following the control of the region, the settlement received its first foral (charter) in 1195, during the reign of King Sancho I. In 1210, King Afonso II gave the title of this village to Queen Urraca. Since then, Óbidos has often been patronized by the Queens of Portugal, giving rise to its informal title as Vila das Rainhas (English: town of the Queens); several royal consorts enriched the village with donations from the Middle Ages until the 16th century.[3]

The castle and walls of Óbidos were remodeled during the reign of King Dinis I.[3] The limestone and marble structure was strengthened and elaborated when King Fernando created the keep in the 14th century. By the time of the first remodeling project, the settlement had also grown beyond the castle gates.

The Church of Santa Maria in Óbidos was the setting for the wedding of King Afonso V to his cousin, Princess Isabella of Coimbra, on 15 August 1441, when they were both still children aged 9 and 10, respectively.[3] Administrative reforms conducted by King Manuel I at Óbidos in 1513, included the institution of a formal charter and major requalification of the urban area.[3]

The 1755 earthquake caused damage to the village walls, a few churches, and many buildings and resulted in the loss of architecture of Arab and Medieval inspiration.[3] Similarly, the Peninsular Wars were fought near Óbidos, including the Battle of Roliça.[3] More recently, the village was a center of government and a meeting place for those involved in the 1974 Carnation Revolution, linking it to the armed forces movement revolt.

We initially tried climbing the Obidos' City Walls for a breathtaking view of the surroundings. The walls were high, without any rails or protection, so I had to be careful how and where I stepped.

After walking around for some time, we returned and continued our tour of Obidos from the inside. There were many restaurants, gift shops, bakeries, fashion stores, and jewelry stores. Inna stopped by a few shops.

We stopped by the Obidos Chocolate House to taste chocolates and drink coffee. We purchased a sampler of chocolates but were not impressed. However, the coffee was excellent.

Eventually, we strolled to the highly-rated bakery Capinha d'Óbidos. We sampled a few parties and were delighted!

From there, we stopped by a Livraria de São Tiago - a bookstore inside a church. It had many books in English and Portuguese, and we spent some time reading.

We continued our walk to the Castelo de Óbidos. We climbed the city walls to take additional photos.

From here, we decided to find a suitable restaurant for lunch. We  considered the following:

We decided to skip lunch and visit another nearby spa town - Caldas da Rainha.

Obidos Trip Report
Highlights

Lowlights
  • Hot, muggy weather

Sunday, September 29, 2024

Touring University of Coimbra, Portugal

Sunday, September 29, 2024

Since Inna had pre-purchased tickets to the 15:00 English-speaking Tour of the University of Coimbra Library, we ordered Uber to take us there on time.

Arriving on schedule, we waited for our tour to begin at the Ticket Office. Our guide, Patricia, was excellent (with perfect British English pronunciation). She provided us with headsets to hear explanations as we wandered around and took photos.

Patricia answered our numerous questions and  provided some interesting tidbits:


Questions regarding the Coimbra University:
  • Coimbra is one of the oldest universities but has no residence halls.
  • Coimbra University tuition is 850.00 euros per year for Portuguese citizens (but does not include residence, food, or books)
  • The university used to have two private jail cells for students who broke the code (i.e., ignoring the 6:00 pm curfew), but this is no longer true. We visited the solitary confinement cells.
    • A guard accompanied jailed students to class and returned them to their cells after class.
Questions regarding the Coimbra University Library:
  • The library did not allow the use of candles, so all reading had to be done using natural light (now electric lights are used)
    • This was done to prevent accidental fires (as library books will burn quickly)
  • The library still uses bats to kill moths (which pray on old books)
  • The library used to employ cats to catch mice (to prevent mice from feasting on old books)
  • Many ancient books are still being digitized (700 have already been done)
  • Qualified academics must request a book, and someone will take it out (once cannot just come in and grab any book he likes)
  • No photos are allowed in the library (to protect the books).
  • Each month, a shelf of books is removed, and they are placed in a unique environmental chamber to de-oxidize the books (helps to protect them)
The library, with its gold-leaf bookshelves, looked stunning—one of the most beautiful I had ever seen.

University of Coimbra Report

Highlights
  • Touring the stunning Coimbra University Library
  • Our tour guide, Patricia, spoke excellent English and answered our questions.
Lowlights
  • Not allowed to take photos in the main library

Saturday, September 28, 2024

Visiting Coimbra, Portugal

Saturday, September 28, 2024

At around 17:30, we finally found our way to Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas (from Casal de Sao Simao). Though we arrived 30 minutes earlier, we could not find the car entrance, and both Google Maps and Apple Maps had incorrect instructions.

We called the hotel, and the receptionist explained how to use the service entrance. Once inside the hotel's driveway, I had to back up my Nissan Qashqai and park near the reception (after getting help from a valet attendant).

We checked into room #46 in the new wing and decided to get some rest by going to the sauna and the pool. The Turkish sauna was quite hot, and we spent a few minutes there. We rested for 30 minutes by the pool. Although the pool closes at 21:00, the sauna and the steam room close at 19:00.

We returned to our room and dressed for dinner. We previously requested 20:00 dinner reservations at Terraco Bairrada docs (across the river), but the hotel could not get through. The hotel called again and was able to make reservations. 

At first, we considered using Bolt or UberX, as Google Maps indicated a 30-minute walk. However, this was incorrect (again), and we followed our hotel's advice to walk there. (The walk to the restaurant was only 10 minutes).

On the way there, we heard loud music and did not know where it came from or what it was. Later on, our dinner hostess explained that it was the famous concert:

A Reuniao Morangos com Acucar (Reunion of Strawberries and Sugar)
Featuring 3 Bands:
  • DZRT
  • 4Taste
  • Just Girls (Morangos com Acucar)

We walked over a beautifully lit pedestrian bridge, "Ponte Pedonal Pedro e Ines." From there, we could see the waterfront, the concert, and Coimbra.

When we reached our restaurant, we saw the name Terraco Bairrada on the door and decided to sit outside. However, when we were handed the menu, we realized that the actual restaurant was upstairs, and this area was mostly for drinks and snacks.

Once upstairs, we decided to sit indoors, as the concert was loud. After looking at the menu and discussing various options, we ordered the following items:
  • Drinks: 2 x Local White wine, Pellegrino, 2 x Hot Black Tea
  • Main: Arroz de Peixes (Fish Stew for 2 people)
  • Dessert: Petit Gateaux (excellent)

The fish stew was delicious (though Inna usually does not care for stews). The Petit Gateaux was fabulous!


Sunday, September 29, 2024

After waking up at 08:15, I showered and dressed. Inna was very tired but eventually got up. We walked downstairs to the Quinta das Lagrimas Restaurant and told the waitress our room #42.

We were seated at a small table for two and waited for coffee to be poured before heading to the buffet.
At the buffet, we noticed an Omelet Station and ordered the following omelets:
  • Boris: Omelet with Mushrooms, tomatoes, peppers
  • Inna: Omelet with Mushrooms, tomatoes, ham, and onions
The omelets were well made but nothing special. For dessert, we tried various breads and small pastries, though we still preferred Pastel de Nuta. I also ordered an espresso (and Inna ordered black tea). Lately, I have preferred espresso to drip coffee.

After breakfast, we decided to walk around the various Quinta das Lagrimas Gardens.

We started our walk at the Romantic Garden, where we noticed some guests formally dressed for the upcoming wedding in the garden. The garden was beautiful, though I can't say what made it "Romantic."

From the Romantic Garden, we walked to the Golf Area. I did not know there was a golf course at the hotel. If I had time, I could practice putting and golf swings (for distance).

We walked to the Medieval Garden from the Golf area, where the wedding ceremony was set up. Many photographers took photos of the Hoopa, which looked very nice.

After taking a few photos, we walked along hiking trails to the Old Forest (Velha), stopping at the Lagrimas Fountain.

The Legend:
We were in the middle of the 14th century when D. Pedro, Prince Heir to the Portuguese Throne, and D.ª Inês de Castro, Castilian maid of Princess Consort D. Constança, gave in to the passion that united them.

Defying the rules and social precepts of the time, the two lovers met secretly in Quinta das Lágrimas's gardens and continued attending even after Pedro's widowhood.

This relationship, strongly disapproved and condemned by the people and the court, would come to an abrupt end in 1355, when by order of King Afonso IV, D. Inês was beheaded.

Legend has it that in the place where Inês was killed, a fountain sprouted whose waters stem from her tears. The blood of her body would forever stain the stones of the fountain. Even today, in the Fonte das Lágrimas, there is a strange stain of red algae on the rock.

Mad with pain, and after having assumed the King's crown in Portugal in 1357, Pedro ordered the arrest and death of Inês's murderers, tearing their hearts out himself.

After visiting the gardens, we walked across the Mondego River (over the pedestrian bridge) and saw the city's main sites. Our first stop was the Old Cathedral of Saint Mary of Coimbra (Se Velha de Coimbra). We paid the entrance fee (2.50 euros/person) and went inside. 

This Romanesque Cathedral was built like an impregnable fort, with small windows and thick walls. We walked around taking photos and then proceeded upstairs to see the cloisters.

Our next stop was the visit to the Santa Cruz Church (Igreja de Santa Cruz), where the remains of two Portuguese kings are buried. It was much more impressive than the Old Cathedral, and we spent much more time here. 

On the second floor, a Choir section (with seating for singers) was separate from the rest of the Church. I had not ever seen this done before.

As we were getting hungry, we continued our walk to Nau Specialty Coffee, where we ate a light lunch. We ordered the following items:
  • Inna: Latte, Burrata
  • Boris: Mocha, Sandwich
This was the first coffee shop with a "Mocha" on the menu (so I had to order it). It was delicious.

We traveled to the University of Coimbra for our tour, about which I wrote in a separate blog post.

After leaving Coimbra University, we stumbled into the New Cathedral of the Holy Name of Jesus (Sé nova do Santíssimo Nome de Jesus (Coimbra). It had doors open (we thought it might be closed), so we decided to pop in for a quick look. It looked beautiful inside, but we'd seen so many cathedrals that they had lost their charm. We did not see anything especially appealing about this one.

After visiting the New Cathedral, we still had time for other activities. Inna suggested that we try listening to Fado, as it is sung by men in Coimbra (Women sing Fado in Lisbon and Porto). We purchased tickets for the 18:00 show (50 minutes long) at Fado Centro.

After sitting in the small room, we were treated to a concert by a combination of two to four musicians playing Fado. There were two guitarists and one to two singers. The singers were students from the University of Coimbra with good voices. However, to me, fado or "fate" is about expressing emotion - heartbreak, sorrow, etc. I felt nothing listening to these Fado musicians, so I cannot rate them highly.

After listening to Fado, we decided to eat dinner at the highly recommended (by our Quinta das Lagrimas staff and Google) Sete Restaurant. I made reservations for 19:00.

After being seated indoors, we looked at the menu and ordered the following items:
  • Appetizer: Seven Flavors Salad with Moscatel Jelly, Bread, Olives
  • Drinks: Sparkling Water, 
  • Inna: Octopus
  • Boris: Lamb Shank in red wine with chestnut purée
The Octopus was mediocre ( a bit too chewy), and the Lamb Shank was difficult to cut (it should have been softer). I did enjoy the chestnut puree (which was smooth and sweet).



Coimbra Trip Report

Highlights

Lowlights

 

 


Hiking Casal De Sao Simao, Portugal

At noon, after checking out of H2otel / Aquadome in Unhais de Terra, we drove the Nissan Qashqai to Casal de Sao Simao so that we could hike along the wooden floorboards to the famous "Passadico das Fragas de Sao Simao."

Upon arrival at 14:00, we were hungry and decided to stop for lunch at Restaurante Varanda do Casal. It was an unexpectedly fancy restaurant at such an unusual location. After being seated, we ordered the following items:

  • Appetizer: Bread, Olives
  • Drinks: Espresso, Sparkling Water, Tea
  • Main: Venison (Deer) Pie with Fresh Salad
Our Venison Pie was quite large and delicious! I also really liked the salad and the espresso. This was an unexpectedly excellent Portuguese restaurant (in the middle of nowhere).

After lunch, we headed for our hike to Fragas De Sao Simao. Inna thought it would be relatively flat, but it was a steep climb down and then up.

Once we climbed down, we saw some people gathered around pools of water, where some were swimming. Swimming here would have been nice (except for the icy water).

We climbed over 450 steps to reach the top (Fragas de Sa Simao).  At the top,  we took many photos and admired the view. We saw a statue of a boy named "Land of Dreams."

The way down was more manageable, though climbing back to Casal De Sao Simao was still challenging.


Casal De Sao Simao Trip Report
Highlights

Lowlights
  • None worth mentioning

Friday, September 27, 2024

Hiking from Piodao to Foz d'Egua

Friday, September 27, 2024

At around 09:30, we started our one-hour drive to Piodao from Unhais da Serra. The road was extraordinarily twisty and narrow, but it had beautiful views of the surrounding hills and mountains. Some of the hills were purple (perhaps Jacaranda).

Upon reaching Piodao, we parked our car and added extra layers of clothing, as it was a chill 50 F outside, overcast, and windy.

After a brief stop at Piodao's tourism office, we started our hike to Foz d'Egua using the iPhone's Alltrails app:

PR2 - AGN - Piodao -Foz d'Egua

The hike was a 4-mile round trip with 1,040 feet of elevation gain. As the local tourist office recommended, we started our hike in a reverse-clockwise direction (opposite to the way suggested by Alltrails).

The trail from Piodao to Foz d'Egua was clean and easy, with few steep ascents and descents. We noticed a few abandoned dwellings and took many photos. We reached Foz d'Egua in just over an hour, taking many pictures of the beautiful small house (they looked like houses for Hobbits in the Lord of the Rings).

We hoped to get a drink of coffee at the cafe there, but when we finally reached it, it was closed.

The way back to Piadao was more difficult, as there were some very steep ascents (and these are what make the trail moderate instead of easy).

After another 80 minutes, we reached Piodao and decided to rest at a nearby Solar restaurant, where we ordered the following items for lunch:

  • Drinks: Water, espresso, hot tea
  • Appetizer: Tapas Diversas (meats & cheeses)
  • Main: Chanfana (cooked goat meat with potatoes)
  • Dessert: Local pastry

Many cats were hoping to get a treat (and Inna gave one cat some small bits of cheese). One of the cats was a bit aggressive and almost jumped on our table. 

We liked the Chanfana, as it tasted homemade. The tapas were excellent, too.

Piodao Trip Report

Highlights

  • Hiking from Piadao to Foz d'Egua

Lowlights

  • Morning rain, fog, and wind on Wednesday
  • Navigating through very narrow, frequently one-way roads

Thursday, September 26, 2024

Visiting the New Hand Lab, Covilha

Thursday, September 26, 2024

From Belmonte, we drove to Covilha to see the New Hand Lab. The drive to Covilha was more difficult due to narrow, one-way roads. We finally arrived at 14:15, a few minutes ahead of its opening hours (14:30 - 17:00)

We waited for the New Hand Lab to open. When it did, a person who worked there let us in and showed us all of the studios where local artists were in residence. The studio is re-using the warehouses that housed old textile manufacturing machines. We saw many old typewriters, calculators, and original textile machines repurposed for creating art.

We learned much more about using wool to make textiles and the various machines processing wool. Of all the New Hand Lab exhibits we saw, we liked the VW Beetle the best.

Visiting Belmonte, Portugal

Thursday, September 26

After we finished breakfast at 10:45, we decided to explore Belmonte. After heavy rain, hiking would be challenging in muddy conditions, so we decided to hike on Friday instead.

I programmed Google Maps on my iPhone with Belmonte directions, and we started our drive in our Nissan Qashqai. On the way there, we took one wrong turn and had to return (an 8-minute delay).


We arrived at Belmonte's Jewish Museum around 12:09, but the museum had a policy of last admission at 12:30 (The museum closed from lunch from 12:30 to 14:00). I was hoping to see some Jewish artifacts in Belmonte.

We next tried to visit the Castelo de Belmonte but encountered the same problem. The castle was closed for lunch (12:30 - 14:00), But we took some lovely photos around the area.

As we wandered around the cute village, we stopped by the Jewish section, where we purchased some Jewish tiles. 


We also stopped by a local cafe - Cabralina - to try local coffee, tea, and bread made from locally made preserves. The fruit preserves were delicious!